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Rob85
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This was the end result of me going across a junction and having to put the boot down to get out of the way of an ambulance that came flying through the red lights with the blue lights on.

If you have ever looked inside a turbo then you know they shouldn't look like this. ☹️

 

Screenshot_20240130_193718_Gallery.jpg

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3 minutes ago, Rob85 said:

This was the end result of me going across a junction and having to put the boot down to get out of the way of an ambulance that came flying through the red lights with the blue lights on.

If you have ever looked inside a turbo then you know they shouldn't look like this. ☹️

 

Screenshot_20240130_193718_Gallery.jpg

what's the hot side look like😮

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Just now, Zoli 12 guage said:

what's the hot side look like😮

Didnt bother to try and check, it's a nissan qashqai and they are an absolute pain to get at to remove the turbo, that's the 2nd turbo it's blown. Didn't throw any smoke or anything when I limped it home. Can't decide if it's somehow ingested something or if the shaft has let go in the middle. Coupling the cost of another turbo and the work required for the MOT it's going to the knackers yard and hopefully its replacement is coming by the weekend.... means I'm now back in the hole of car finance 🙄

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1 hour ago, ditchman said:

looks like the bushings have run out....lack of oil ?...and it has chattered against the shoud.

i ran a long thread a few years ago with loads of pics about turbo damage and rebuild...........

i rebuilt a Renault Garrett one for my own car in the 90's.

new ceramic bushes,seals etc for about 40 or 50 quid.

they wanted 4 or 5 hundred for a complete rebuilt exchange unit.

luckily for me the shaft and turbine blades were fine but it was dumping oil through the hot end and smoking extremely badly.

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11 hours ago, ditchman said:

looks like the bushings have run out....lack of oil ?...and it has chattered against the shoud.

i ran a long thread a few years ago with loads of pics about turbo damage and rebuild...........

This one was a recon unit and one criticism I've heard about the companies rebuilding them is they balance the CHRA but then don't balance it in its own casing. Possibly this is the case and the bearings have died. It just went all of a sudden with no warning, just gave the car some pedal to get out the way of the ambulance and boof, all boost gone and wind just howling through it. Didn't even trail black smoke or use oil on the limp back home.

I would take the time to put a new one in if they weren't so damn awkward to get at, the mechanic that fitted this one nearly 3 years ago told me you can't take it off on its own, the inlet manifold has to come out with the turbo attached and then split them on the bench. I just cba with it now 😒 

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20 hours ago, ShootingEgg said:

Surely if at a traffic light junction the sirens would have been sounding?! Seems odd to be mid junction then have to floor it.

RIP turbo

I was following the flow of traffic and as I crossed the white line I saw the ambulance coming from the right, only then did I hear it, they don't always have sirens on, generally only to warn what's in their way. I also had a guy right up my chuff so I didn't fancy him occupying the back seat if I slammed on the brakes 😆

Well on a brighter note, the replacement arrived today, went for a VW Tiguan. Nice comfy wee bus

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When I had a Kawasaki 750 Turbo the advice was always when you got to where you were going to sit on the bike and let the engine keep running for a couple of minutes to cool the turbo. That shutting the bike off straightaway meant that oil stopped circulating and the turbo was therefore shut off while still hot. And that's why most units failed. They'd not been allowed time to "cool" from hot as it were.

Edited by enfieldspares
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24 minutes ago, enfieldspares said:

When I had a Kawasaki 750 Turbo the advice was always when you got to where you were going to sit on the bike and let the engine keep running for a couple of minutes to cool the turbo. That shutting the bike off straightaway meant that oil stopped circulating and the turbo was therefore shut off while still hot. And that's why most units failed. They'd not been allowed time to "cool" from hot as it were.

AFAIK it's now't to do with the temperature it's to do with the fact that the turbine could still be  spinning at a couple of hundred thousand RPM when you cut the engine off and therefore the oil supply to the ceramic bushes/bearings.

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1 minute ago, Zoli 12 guage said:

AFAIK it's now't to do with the temperature it's to do with the fact that the turbine could still be  spinning at a couple of hundred thousand RPM when you cut the engine off and therefore the oil supply to the ceramic bushes/bearings.

Yes. You are correct. It was this.

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Tips told to me when I first had a car with a turbo.

  1. When you arrive after travelling fast, allow engine to run very gently (at or near idle) for a minute or two; usually easily managed by reversing into your parking slot!
  2. When starting engine, start without touching accelerator and never rev above idle until the oil has got round (5 or 10 seconds)
  3. Change oil at least to schedule or more frequently on short run use - and use quality oil of correct grade/type.  (Many may specify expensive synthetic oil, but bear the cost - it's cheaper than a new turbo)
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1 hour ago, JohnfromUK said:

Tips told to me when I first had a car with a turbo.

  1. When you arrive after travelling fast, allow engine to run very gently (at or near idle) for a minute or two; usually easily managed by reversing into your parking slot!
  2. When starting engine, start without touching accelerator and never rev above idle until the oil has got round (5 or 10 seconds)
  3. Change oil at least to schedule or more frequently on short run use - and use quality oil of correct grade/type.  (Many may specify expensive synthetic oil, but bear the cost - it's cheaper than a new turbo)

Yes, that should be followed verbatim.

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On 10/02/2024 at 05:52, JohnfromUK said:

Tips told to me when I first had a car with a turbo.

  1. When you arrive after travelling fast, allow engine to run very gently (at or near idle) for a minute or two; usually easily managed by reversing into your parking slot!
  2. When starting engine, start without touching accelerator and never rev above idle until the oil has got round (5 or 10 seconds)
  3. Change oil at least to schedule or more frequently on short run use - and use quality oil of correct grade/type.  (Many may specify expensive synthetic oil, but bear the cost - it's cheaper than a new turbo)

totally right...............i was told thatwhen you stop an engine that has been on full chat and turbo with out lettingit cool down ..abrasive crystals will form in the interfaces twix bushes and oil....and will accelerate bush/bearing wear.......

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