miki

I agree, great wee shop.

He was confused (or you were), what he was talking about was the backcut barrel thread and face onto which the moderators bridge is threaded, relative to the bore. The nominal tollerance is 2thou, in bench rest that large an offset can cause drift as the bullet, when exiting the moderator, could be (depending how long the baffle stack is) 1thou closer to one side than the other resulting in a disruption to the poa/poi. Many bench rest shooters don't use moderators for that reason.

No it doesn't. I dosent do anything other than help the careless guide the barrel thread into the moderators bridge and wear the blue off the barrel. It does stop bits of pine needle, grass and other vegetation getting in between the vertex chamber wall and the barrel for those who carry muzzle down. I take mine out. Carry muzzel up and take the moderator off after every outing. These bushes have no effect whatsoever on the position of the moderator relative to the bore of the barrel.

and some minted garden peas, with a pint of Abbots on the side.

Cruelty to mice, unneccesary and (IMO) pointless.

Like that .... very nice. I still have a Parker-hale kit from back when they brought out the Escort RS 1600 ....

30/high according to the box

I take it you are not a banker then @smokingdragon? Have you ever thought of being a banker ? Do you know what these 'bankers' actually do ? Do you have your own company ? Are you a Limited Company Director ? Do you have responsibility for many others ? For example if you screwed up at work and made bad decisions would there then be serveral families that couldn't pay their mortgages or credit cards off next month ? Would you accept responsibility for generating revenue so that (say) 25 people could pay monthly bills and if you didn't bring in (25 x £25000 + profit) say £800,000, this year and every year, would you make them redundant ? Who derides how much you get paid and do you think you don't get enough for what you do ?

I always change my oil myself and use a manual vacuum 'sucker' through the dipstick tube. I have a Defender, Audi TT and a Toyota. I do like to remove the sump plug on occasion (every 2nd or 3rd change) but to be honest I think that just me being oldfashioned/stuck in my ways. Good advice above from @Cannon I'm not sure wht you would want to change oil 'between services', these days and with modern oils I wouldn't see any advantage in doing so. If you are racing the car maybe ? I'd be much more inclined to change the differential and gearbox oils more frequently to be fair.

450 pennies, gosh that must have nearly hurt our @ditchman

Run mine @30psi F and B

My mate just bought one of those seats, they look quite sturdy and are great for carrying stuff to and from the hide.

Nice.

I haven't. It is a nice photo, it was the category that got me ... and I don't like to see 'a pile of dead things strewn on the ground' either ...

They are nor a sporting quarry in the UK

Not in the UK ...

👍

A village called Branston ... ?

Thats because it took him/her more time to find his/her pen than fill the form in ...

I think my approach would be to cut out a triangle and weld so that the new section had a 90 degree bend about 6" along. Then I would cut across the corners and hammer this opened end onto the outside of your green/existing section, trimming as I go and hammering the open 'petals' flat. A plumbers gas torch to heat the expaning section would help. When I was over by around 70mm I would remove the section and 'fill weld' back to square. Put the new piece where you want it and drill through fitting an M8 bolt to hold it from pulling off. Flapper wheel back to pretty, paint inside and out. Job done.

We can tell that by looking at the tray ..... 😎

I bought one a while ago .... they remind me of the old Frosties add https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334373574648

I'd agree here that they shouldn't be coming loose. Something is wrong. Lots of grease sounds like the suspect. This will cause the wood to soften (i'm assuming the screws are into wood ?) If they are set screws into a nut, then a degrease and a small amount of low shear locktite (222) will work.

TV transmitters are designed not to interfere with each other and are seperated by distance and frequency bands, A, B and C/D. Each band has a specific aerial and there are also wideband and semi-wideband aerials W, E and K Areial are also rotated to be Vertical or Horizontal, again this aids interference mitigation. Each band covers a separate set of frequencies and it's aerial is colour coded. Consequently you need an aerial that matches the band (of frequencies) that corresponds with your local transmitter. @TIGHTCHOKEposted a link above that will tell you what band and which direction/orientation you need to point your aerial. A group 'K' aerial is a 'semi wide-band' device and covers the A ands B bands. It recieves them but nowhere near as good as a specific aerial. Put into context it gathers about 1/2 the signal a dedicated aerial would. To get the best result you need an aerial that matches the ransmitter.

TV transmitters are designed not to interfere with each other and are seperated by distance and frequency bands, A, B and C/D. Each band has a specific aerial and there are also wideband and semi-wideband aerials W, E and K Areial are also rotated to be Vertical or Horizontal, again this aids interference mitigation. Each band covers a separate set of frequencies and is colour coded. Consequently you need an aerial that matches the band (of frequencies) that corresponds with your local transmitter. @TIGHTCHOKEposted a link above that will tell you what band and which direction/orientation you need to point your aerial. A group 'K' aerial is a 'semi wide-band' device and covers the A ands B bands. It recieves them but nowhere near as good as a specific aerial. Put into context it gathers about 1/2 the signal a dedicated aerial would. To get the best result you need an aerial that matches the ransmitter.