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Gun Safe-Which bolts??


luxxyman
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If breeze block is your only option then be very very careful when drilling the holes, it’s very easy to oversize the holes because of their soft ish makeup, and also when you tighten the bolts do so with caution as breeze blocks are easy to split when using things like wall anchors. Providing your careful they should be fine. 

I would be tempted to use threaded bar and resin and then double nut. someone else may know a better fixing option

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2 minutes ago, walshie said:

I prefer studding and chemical resin. It doesn't put the stress on the blocks that rawlbolts do and you can drill a much smaller diameter hole. 

I would do this if the blocks are 'breeze block' or light weight thermal blocks. If they are dense concrete blocks I would either go the resin route or rawl bolt. Mine is rawl bolted to a dense concrete block wall. Cant remember if mine are M10 or M12 though.

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9 minutes ago, walshie said:

I prefer studding and chemical resin. It doesn't put the stress on the blocks that rawlbolts do and you can drill a much smaller diameter hole. 

What do you mean by this....better still can you post a link?

would be much appreciated?

5 minutes ago, Jbob said:

I would do this if the blocks are 'breeze block' or light weight thermal blocks. If they are dense concrete blocks I would either go the resin route or rawl bolt. Mine is rawl bolted to a dense concrete block wall. Cant remember if mine are M10 or M12 though.

With regards to the rawl bolt do they need to be 140mm long or would 75mm suffice?

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I would guess the block wall your planning to fix to is 100mm thick with out looking at it. So the bolt wants to be shorter. 75mm sounds about right to me. I believe mine are 75mm long. 

The method walshie is describing is to drill a hole in the wall slightly larger than the threaded rod diameter. Fill the hole with resin, available at builders merchants etc. Push the rod into the hole and let it set. Once set offer the cabinet up over the threads and bolt to the wall. Walshie is right that this method is a softer/more delicate approach than rawl bolts in light weight masonry

Edited by Jbob
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Screenshot_2019-02-14-13-32-12.png.acd856c5c00792adad74da1cf0dabc86.pngScreenshot_2019-02-14-13-33-00.png.ba12c8d3c1479a25471a6233db559b60.png

Any like these, if the threaded stud are too long either get shorter ones or cut to size

Drill and clean the holes, insert the resing following instructions followed by the stud, allow to go off and then bolt the cabinet to the stud. I would use nylon lock nuts and washers. The resin instructions should tell you the hole size and depth for the stud size.

Edit - make sure the stud will go through the holes 10mm may be better to allow for slight misalignment. Get the holes as clean of dust as possible or the fixings won't hold as well as they should.

 

 

Jbob beat me to it.

Edit 2 - Rawl bolts will also work

Edited by Newbie to this
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26 minutes ago, luxxyman said:

What do you mean by this....better still can you post a link?

I've got cabinets bolted to brick and to block and I've used studding and resin on all of them. I drilled 10mm holes, blew out the dust, squeezed in the resin, then pushed 8mm studding (threaded rod) in. Beauty is you can cut them to whatever length you want with a hacksaw. Leave overnight and add a nut and washer. 👍

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1 minute ago, walshie said:

I've got cabinets bolted to brick and to block and I've used studding and resin on all of them. I drilled 10mm holes, blew out the dust, squeezed in the resin, then pushed 8mm studding (threaded rod) in. Beauty is you can cut them to whatever length you want with a hacksaw. Leave overnight and add a nut and washer. 👍

Must admit if I have to move again or install another cabinet this might well be the method I employ.

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6 minutes ago, walshie said:

I've got cabinets bolted to brick and to block and I've used studding and resin on all of them. I drilled 10mm holes, blew out the dust, squeezed in the resin, then pushed 8mm studding (threaded rod) in. Beauty is you can cut them to whatever length you want with a hacksaw. Leave overnight and add a nut and washer. 👍

Wouldn’t a 10mm threaded rod be better than 8mm?

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1 minute ago, luxxyman said:

Wouldn’t a 10mm threaded rod be better than 8mm?

Possibly. But there is a lot of strength in 4no 8mm fixings you'd be hard pushed to pull it off the wall again. If your worried though beef it up and use 10mm rod in 12mm holes filled with resin 👍

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16 minutes ago, luxxyman said:

Wouldn’t a 10mm threaded rod be better than 8mm?

Bigger isn't always better. You could use 10mm or 12mm if you wanted. I find 8mm more than strong enough and my FEO is happy with it. 8mm rod is substantial stuff.

Edited by walshie
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1 hour ago, Jbob said:

Possibly. But there is a lot of strength in 4no 8mm fixings you'd be hard pushed to pull it off the wall again. If your worried though beef it up and use 10mm rod in 12mm holes filled with resin 👍

Thanks for all the reply’s guys much appreciated!

Decided to go for the resin and rod method!

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 rawlbolts that need a 14mm hole use 8mm bolts and are more than strong enough, reason I know is that I have had to remove a locked cabinet with no keys (long story) from the wall. Needed a big bar and lots of wood for pressure spread to overcome them.

8mm rod fits easily through the predrilled holes in the back of your cabinet and allows you a little wriggle room. If you are chemical fixing you can simply put cabinet against the wall then drill then fix rod allow to cure then add washers and nuts and the job is a good 'un - no trying to line up lengths of rod at different angles!

just my opinion

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