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Hide Poles ???


marsh man
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Evening all ...... Apart from making them up yourself , do you know any supplier or maker who sell or produce hide poles with longer points below the kick plate , I have got two full sets and a few single ones that could do with an extra two or three inches on the points .

Yesterday I was decoying on a rape field in windy conditions , I always take a couple of extra poles in case the wind is sideways or blowing slightly in your face , if the wind is blowing in the above direction I put an extra pole in between to stop the net blowing inwards .

Well with the ground being soft and the spikes only going in a few inches it didn't take long with the movement of the net to make the poles loose , these poles were bought from the different game fairs I go to and same ole story , you get what you pay for , cheap and nasty spring to mind .

The first poles I ever bought were the Pinewood ones , very light , long spikes and nice and light , up to now they were the best ones I have used .

So what do you use ? , or what would you recommend ?    THANKS

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5 minutes ago, marsh man said:

Evening all ...... Apart from making them up yourself , do you know any supplier or maker who sell or produce hide poles with longer points below the kick plate , I have got two full sets and a few single ones that could do with an extra two or three inches on the points .

Yesterday I was decoying on a rape field in windy conditions , I always take a couple of extra poles in case the wind is sideways or blowing slightly in your face , if the wind is blowing in the above direction I put an extra pole in between to stop the net blowing inwards .

Well with the ground being soft and the spikes only going in a few inches it didn't take long with the movement of the net to make the poles loose , these poles were bought from the different game fairs I go to and same ole story , you get what you pay for , cheap and nasty spring to mind .

The first poles I ever bought were the Pinewood ones , very light , long spikes and nice and light , up to now they were the best ones I have used .

So what do you use ? , or what would you recommend ?    THANKS

Are you able to extend them with extra tubing pop riveted in lace?

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Para cord and tent pegs, tied to the tops of the poles and stretched in 2 directions, according to wind direction. 10 plastic tent pegs weigh very little and with the 5" or so between point and kick plate on the hide poles I have no problems. I also peg the bottom of the net with tent pegs and/or cord to stop that flapping. A pair of secateurs will provide sufficient sticks to aid pegging the net down. I use 4 pinewood poles, 2 long at the back and 2 short at the front.

Edited by Westley
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3 minutes ago, Dave at kelton said:

Are you able to extend them with extra tubing pop riveted in lace?

I dare say something similar to what you suggested could be done , but not by me , I am alright with a brick and plastering trowel , but tubing and pop rivets , no chance ☺️

 

7 minutes ago, hambone said:

He's after hide poles, not a frock :whistling:

:lol:

 

7 minutes ago, Westley said:

Para cord and tent pegs, tied to the tops of the poles and stretched in 2 directions, according to wind direction. 10 plastic tent pegs weigh very little and with the 5" or so between point and kick plate on the hide poles I have no problems. I also peg the bottom of the net with tent pegs and/or cord to stop that flapping. A pair of secateurs will provide sufficient sticks to aid pegging the net down.

Sound like a logical way out Westley THANKS , but I don,t think it would be to difficult for the guys who make these poles to make them with longer spikes even if it meant a few quid dearer.

One of the farm boys made a set with 3/8th reinforce rods , two were about 4ft 6ins and the back two were about a foot bigger from the kick plate , the kick plate was 9 / 10 inches from the bottom and the top had a small v welded on the hang the net , very crude but when they went in the ground they stayed there even in the strongest of winds . 

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The ground is NOT always soft though  !   Get along to your local £1 store and buy some of the green plastic ties for plants, also some of the round locking plastic rings for plants, they are brilliant for fixing the net to the poles. Pull the net around the back poles and clip it to itself using these reusable plant ties. I use the small plastic tubs that vitamin tablets come in, to store the plant ties in.

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1 hour ago, PPP said:

The ones with kick plates on have a grub screw to move the plate up and down BUT as I live in the driest part of the country often the ground is like concrete so I mostly use fishing bivvy poles with auger ends

 

My poles must be different from yours as they are riveted about 2 inches from the bottom of the pole into the kick plate so there is no adjustment , you are right about the ground being to hard , last Summer during the heatwave I was moaning about the same thing , tell yer , us pigeon shooters take some pleasing :lol:

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2 hours ago, Westley said:

Para cord and tent pegs, tied to the tops of the poles and stretched in 2 directions, according to wind direction. 10 plastic tent pegs weigh very little and with the 5" or so between point and kick plate on the hide poles I have no problems. I also peg the bottom of the net with tent pegs and/or cord to stop that flapping. A pair of secateurs will provide sufficient sticks to aid pegging the net down. I use 4 pinewood poles, 2 long at the back and 2 short at the front.

This is exactly the way to go!

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33 minutes ago, marmite said:

IVE USED A FEW DIFFERANT ONES BUT THE BEST ARE UK SHOOT WARE HOUSE ARE BY FAR THE BEST

The original Pinewood ones I bought from one of the game fairs were without a shadow of doubt the best ones I had bought , light and a strong construction , nothing on the outside to snag your nets , easy to get your nets on and off from the v on the top, longer spike than the cheap ones you get nowadays and there was a plastic cone inside the pole you tighten up if it started to slide down with any weight on it , if you can still get them now I would imagine they are a bit pricey but like I say , you get what you pay for. 

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I have about a dozen I have made from Aldi line props. Some I have turned some points down to go in the end and then take about 4 to 5 inches of 30 mill box and drill a hole same size as pole so the hole is about 1/4 inch from the end leaving 3 inches or so as a kick /shove plate.  I put these about 10 inches from the point which normally does the job.  Cheap, chearful and apart from the fact I might have to give the coloured ones a quick spray do the job.  I also have an 18 inch lenh of 20 mill steel rod which is sharpened at one end which on really dry hard ground I can drive in first.    I also have a folding blind made from 1 inch plastic water pipe...I'll have to put up pictures. I have shot a lot of birds from this and it is easily picked up and moved if required.

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14 minutes ago, Walker570 said:

I have about a dozen I have made from Aldi line props. Some I have turned some points down to go in the end and then take about 4 to 5 inches of 30 mill box and drill a hole same size as pole so the hole is about 1/4 inch from the end leaving 3 inches or so as a kick /shove plate.  I put these about 10 inches from the point which normally does the job.  Cheap, chearful and apart from the fact I might have to give the coloured ones a quick spray do the job.  I also have an 18 inch lenh of 20 mill steel rod which is sharpened at one end which on really dry hard ground I can drive in first.    I also have a folding blind made from 1 inch plastic water pipe...I'll have to put up pictures. I have shot a lot of birds from this and it is easily picked up and moved if required.

I once had to take four French guys out for four days pigeon decoying , I had a lot of spare gear but I still had to beg , borrow and steal a few more bits and pieces , one thing I needed was a set of poles , talking to the tractor driver on the farm he said you can borrow my set of home made ones he made up from half inch reinforce rods , these were crude and basic , two were about four foot six and the back two about a foot taller , they all had a point on the bottom with a kick plate welded on nine or ten inches from the bottom with a v bit welded on the top , dead easy to put up and once in the ground they stayed solid and rigged all day .

The downside was the weight, and they didn't adjust , the weight wasn't that bad and for adjustment you could lower or raise the net to suit what height you were happy with .

There you go Walker take on a challenge , with your welding skills , both you and ditchie could come up with a deluxe set , market them and all our prayers will be answered 😊

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No need, the Aldi ones work a treat. You just have to remember to not screw the kick plate on when the sliding inner section is in place ...been there done that. Even with 10 inches cut off the inner so it all fits together they will still easily go up 6ft high if needed.    You don't need kick plates on all of them as you can make holes for the others with the ones with the kick plates.

I found a couple of those reinforcing rod poles once, someone had left them in a hedge and I could see why, your right, they are heavy.  12 inches of high tensile fencing wire bent together half way then spread half of that to a V, pushed in the top of the pole makes a good enough net hanger. 

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If you want some very good net hangers, buy some 22mm stand off pipe clips, the type that the pipe 'snaps' into. I then use some wood dowel into the top of the tube, with the pipe clip screwed into it.  The clip can either be used to hold the net or some 3/4" plastic overflow pipe threaded between the net and snapped into the 2 front poles. A 3/4" plastic overflow coupling allows the pipe to be cut down for carrying and connected back to 1 piece for use. A quick spray of matt black paint over the plastic pipe, job  done.  I wish I knew how to get pictures onto here  !   😖

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1 hour ago, Westley said:

If you want some very good net hangers, buy some 22mm stand off pipe clips, the type that the pipe 'snaps' into. I then use some wood dowel into the top of the tube, with the pipe clip screwed into it.  The clip can either be used to hold the net or some 3/4" plastic overflow pipe threaded between the net and snapped into the 2 front poles. A 3/4" plastic overflow coupling allows the pipe to be cut down for carrying and connected back to 1 piece for use. A quick spray of matt black paint over the plastic pipe, job  done.  I wish I knew how to get pictures onto here  !   😖

neat idea, like it.

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2 hours ago, Westley said:

If you want some very good net hangers, buy some 22mm stand off pipe clips, the type that the pipe 'snaps' into. I then use some wood dowel into the top of the tube, with the pipe clip screwed into it.  The clip can either be used to hold the net or some 3/4" plastic overflow pipe threaded between the net and snapped into the 2 front poles. A 3/4" plastic overflow coupling allows the pipe to be cut down for carrying and connected back to 1 piece for use. A quick spray of matt black paint over the plastic pipe, job  done.  I wish I knew how to get pictures onto here  !   😖

A lot of satisfaction is gained when a lot of your kit is home made and you devise your own ways of doing things , you seen as if you have have overcome the problems that crop up without relying on the pigeon gear suppliers , Well done , now all you need to do is learn how to put on a photo , believe you me , if I can do it , you should certainly be able to master it :good:

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