millrace Posted October 9, 2020 Report Share Posted October 9, 2020 Has anyone ever worked at one of these,,tinkered or have any knowledge.....? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harrycatcat1 Posted October 9, 2020 Report Share Posted October 9, 2020 In about 1967 I had a 197cc helicoiled at a local motorcycle shop that cost me 10 bob but not had any experience since then, sorry I can't help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saltings Posted October 9, 2020 Report Share Posted October 9, 2020 have you got a project what info are you after most bits are still available simple to work on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
millrace Posted October 9, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2020 Project.....ummmmm not quite sure yet.....lol I'm picking up a vintage bike tomorrow 1952 125cc villiers engined little thing.... spur of moment buy,,,lol know nothing about them,,so I know it was started in july and idled for while,, so after initial check ie oil ,,clean tank filter,gear selection etc any other things before we try the big fire up.... Am I right its 1,20 oil mix so 250ml per gallon just any tips much appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldypigeonpopper Posted October 9, 2020 Report Share Posted October 9, 2020 Hello, in 1965 I had my first motor bike, Frances Barnet with a Villiers engine, very easy to work on, my tip is go easy on the throttle and let it warm up before you zoom off 👍 Just now, oldypigeonpopper said: Hello, in 1965 I had my first motor bike, Frances Barnet with a Villiers engine, very easy to work on, my tip is go easy on the throttle and let it warm up before you zoom off 👍 And keep the plug clean 👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon R Posted October 9, 2020 Report Share Posted October 9, 2020 I would check your fuel mix. The 20:1 was in the days of inferior oil. It might be a bit rich. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saltings Posted October 9, 2020 Report Share Posted October 9, 2020 21 minutes ago, millrace said: Project.....ummmmm not quite sure yet.....lol I'm picking up a vintage bike tomorrow 1952 125cc villiers engined little thing.... spur of moment buy,,,lol know nothing about them,,so I know it was started in july and idled for while,, so after initial check ie oil ,,clean tank filter,gear selection etc any other things before we try the big fire up.... Am I right its 1,20 oil mix so 250ml per gallon just any tips much appreciated cant go wrong or you will learn how to rebuild to have a jolly older engine oil ratio sounds about right if the tank is rusty inside they can be cleaned up spotless get in touch points and condensers available jets and new carbs available even castings and cranks etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
millrace Posted October 9, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2020 I'm open to all advice,,the fuel mix was from the 10d manual the only 2stroke I use is in a still saw.....lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlaserF3 Posted October 9, 2020 Report Share Posted October 9, 2020 https://classic-motorbikes.net/manuals/20-c-villiers Here's a free one http://www.lamaneta.org/manuales/manuales/Villiers Manual Motor Mk 10D 125cc y Mk 6E 197cc 7952.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amateur Posted October 9, 2020 Report Share Posted October 9, 2020 (edited) You will need the Hammertight spanner to remove the flywheel, and, yes with modern oil you can reduce the petrol/oil ratio ( but you may need to adjust the jetting). They are very tolerant of abuse, though, and needed to be with all us 16 year olds practicing our spannering in the 1960s Edited October 10, 2020 by amateur Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saltings Posted October 9, 2020 Report Share Posted October 9, 2020 a lot of modern day stuff runs synthetic oils old stuff runs mineral oil mix smith and Allen mineral oils worth a look vintage oils and blended for older engines i still run mineral oils a higher mix rate older engines the spark plug tell you wright or wrong the oil is the cheapest part of the engine less oil means £££££ repairs follow a lambretta all you can smell is two stroke before you can see it ive had bikes that ran 20 /50 mineral mix back in the day before two stroke oils to 50/1 oil is key i use 25/1 on all small engines and adjust carbs i add 100 mls mineral two stroke oil to £ 20 diesel in my old truck 1/4 mil miles not using oil or water all my chainsaws strimmer's hedge cutters blowers run 25 / 1 carbs adjusted to suit oil mix i still have and old aluminum mc cullack top handle chainsaw cant remember the number loud sucker 40 + yrs old starts every time solo stihl eco dolmar sax McCullagh Jon seer partner stiga oil is key to the life of any engine two stroke or not the best oil the engine lives Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matgriff Posted October 10, 2020 Report Share Posted October 10, 2020 Regardless of the two stroke oil quality, you should stick to the original ratio (within reason) If you use a lot lower ratio of oil mix, you'll run rich, too much oil in the fuel and you'll run lean. As the carb has a fixed main jet, you'd need to jet down if you start to run 50:1 using newer synthetic oil.... on the plus side, running rich is safe for a two stroke engine, running lean can be dangerous. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
millrace Posted October 10, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2020 So I take it on looking for a mineral 2 stroke oil....? Not sure what the motor factors have till later,but quick look on halfords and they do a garden mineral 2 stroke so this can be a back up if no 5lts at parts shop.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matgriff Posted October 10, 2020 Report Share Posted October 10, 2020 a good general purpose mineral/semi-synth l 2 stroke oil is what's needed. Plenty around at reasonable prices. Stick to 25:1 and you'll be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
williamwansbeck Posted October 10, 2020 Report Share Posted October 10, 2020 Carry key and spare plugsl letit idle before hoofing off from cold,learn the amount of choke needed for different situations and temps(learn the bikes feel)clear the clutch before starting.Aalways remember oil and petrol sharp stop on neat petrol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldypigeonpopper Posted October 14, 2020 Report Share Posted October 14, 2020 (edited) On 09/10/2020 at 22:19, oldypigeonpopper said: Hello, in 1965 I had my first motor bike, Frances Barnet with a Villiers engine, very easy to work on, my tip is go easy on the throttle and let it warm up before you zoom off 👍 And keep the plug clean 👍 Hello, your know if running well by the plug color, a few photos would be good, Edited October 14, 2020 by oldypigeonpopper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stimo22 Posted October 14, 2020 Report Share Posted October 14, 2020 The old “tune by plug colour” no longer applies with modern two stroke oils. The best option would be to join one of the many villiers owners clubs and get there advice or send a email to classic bike magazine for expert advice. I run several of four strokes and got their advice several times Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord O War Posted October 15, 2020 Report Share Posted October 15, 2020 (edited) A mate of mine over Sheffied way restores old Excelsior bikes and the engines in those are very similar to the Vickers. When we were made redundant a couple of years ago he decided that he was fed up being a wage slave and is making his hobbly into a business. Link to his Facebook page bike restoration have a look at the engines he has done recently, they looked like boat anchors but he has them come up beautiful. Edited October 15, 2020 by Lord O War Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
islandgun Posted October 23, 2020 Report Share Posted October 23, 2020 Just seen this, I have a villiers powered plough, which is a swine to get to run at higher revs.. Im wondering if its because of lead free petrol now as apposed to leaded when it was made Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vince Green Posted October 23, 2020 Report Share Posted October 23, 2020 (edited) You can download the manuals http://www.icenicam.org.uk/library/Villiers/10D_6E_manual_1949-04.pdf http://www.icenicam.org.uk/library/Villiers/10D_6E_manual_1956-11.pdf Edited October 23, 2020 by Vince Green Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
millrace Posted October 24, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2020 Well the villiers lives....lol 1952,,,kickstart spines are gone so it's a strap on flywheel job....but she lives....not much smoke to be fair gears all select and ceems to work as should,,, needs carb adjusted as idle is off and new kickstart lever to order ,,have no doubt this is the calm before things get stripped to check ie. brakes etc,electrics need sorted for lights but that's all for the future.....lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amateur Posted October 25, 2020 Report Share Posted October 25, 2020 Don't expect much for lights if they are direct off the flywheel magneto. On the 150 Sun that I had in the 60s, when you changed from 2nd to 3rd (only 3 gears), the lights would go from dim to gloworm. I solved that one on a later James by fitting a battery and feeding all the limited power into charging that, then, when I went out at night, prayed that the battery would hold enough charge to get me home - but at least I could see my way! Of course, with LEDs, this may not be a problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vince Green Posted October 25, 2020 Report Share Posted October 25, 2020 7 hours ago, amateur said: Don't expect much for lights if they are direct off the flywheel magneto. On the 150 Sun that I had in the 60s, when you changed from 2nd to 3rd (only 3 gears), the lights would go from dim to gloworm. I solved that one on a later James by fitting a battery and feeding all the limited power into charging that, then, when I went out at night, prayed that the battery would hold enough charge to get me home - but at least I could see my way! Of course, with LEDs, this may not be a problem You just need a good LED head band Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snow white Posted October 25, 2020 Report Share Posted October 25, 2020 I had a 125 jame back in 1963/64 villers engine made in Wolverhampton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amateur Posted October 25, 2020 Report Share Posted October 25, 2020 Thinking further about the lights. If you do want to fit LEDs and you still have the bike wired for lighting direct from the flywheel magneto, that will produce 6 volt alternating current, and LEDs usually need 12v direct current, so you would need to fit a rectifier and a 12v battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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