Degalle79 Posted October 3, 2012 Report Share Posted October 3, 2012 I fell into a very deep drainage ditch and my gun was fully submersed in water for about 30 seconds while I scrambled out. I dryed gun off as soon as I got home, then broke it down into its three main parts and put in hot press, should I remove action from stock, it's a siler pigeon s. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr williamson Posted October 3, 2012 Report Share Posted October 3, 2012 Be carefull!! Drying a gun can be devastating in hot rooms, wood can warp and split. Let it dry at room temp to avoid this. I personall would strip the lot down dry and re assemble and lubricate/grease as neaded. Bet you will steer clear of ditches now lol. I cant talk i fell into a hole in a feild up to my chest last winter. Lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Browning Posted October 4, 2012 Report Share Posted October 4, 2012 should I remove action from stock, it's a siler pigeon s. Yes, get the stock off a.s.a.p. that way you can get the back of the action dried out and re-greased. As said above let the woodwork dry out slowly though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon R Posted October 4, 2012 Report Share Posted October 4, 2012 (edited) Take off the stock, barrels, forend etc. If you have an air compressor or access to one - get it blown dry with the air blower. Spray it with WD40 or equivalent, blow it dry again, spray again and then let it dry at room temperature. Edited October 4, 2012 by Gordon R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bewsher500 Posted October 4, 2012 Report Share Posted October 4, 2012 unlikely the wood has absorbed that much water in 30 seconds. I would be more concerned about water sitting in joints though so yes take the stock off. I oil finish all my stocks under the actions for precisely this reason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dekers Posted October 4, 2012 Report Share Posted October 4, 2012 (edited) I go with pretty much everything above, never accelerate the drying process through radiators, fan heaters, whatever, dry as much a possible by wiping and then let dry at room temperature. And in your case strip the gun as far as possible, clean and lubricate as required. I see no long term problems as long as you follow everyones comments here. Edited October 4, 2012 by Dekers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mudpatten Posted October 4, 2012 Report Share Posted October 4, 2012 Most importantly,remove the ejectors and ejector springs and dry and oil them thoroughly. If you don`t know how to remove the ejectors on a Beretta, have a look on You tube. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markws80 Posted October 4, 2012 Report Share Posted October 4, 2012 Take off the stock, barrels, forend etc. If you have an air compressor or access to one - get it blown dry with the air blower. Spray it with WD40 or equivalent, blow it dry again, spray again and then let it dry at room temperature. Dont use wd40 use 3in1 oil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bewsher500 Posted October 4, 2012 Report Share Posted October 4, 2012 Dont use wd40 use 3in1 oil that bit I dont necessarily agree with WD40 is a water displacing oil and comes in a viscocity that it will penetrate and displace water 3in1 is too thick to penetrate and won't displace water in the same way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Salop Matt Posted October 4, 2012 Report Share Posted October 4, 2012 Doesnt WD40 damage blueing as blueing is a form of rust/ corrosion and WD40 is ment to stop it ? Could be wrong here though ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigman Posted October 4, 2012 Report Share Posted October 4, 2012 Doesnt WD40 damage blueing as blueing is a form of rust/ corrosion and WD40 is ment to stop it ? Could be wrong here though ! think you could be mate , id go with wd40 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-Mongrel- Posted October 4, 2012 Report Share Posted October 4, 2012 (edited) Doesnt WD40 damage blueing as blueing is a form of rust/ corrosion and WD40 is ment to stop it ? Could be wrong here though ! This has been done before, and nobody could come up with anything more than hearsay and opinion. Plenty of people, myself included have used WD40 for cleaning and drying purposes with no detrimental effects. Note I said cleaning. For protection, once the gun has been cleaned, it is then wiped over and barrels pulled through with a protective oil, personally I use 3-in-1. Edited October 4, 2012 by -Mongrel- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon R Posted October 4, 2012 Report Share Posted October 4, 2012 I have been using WD40 for over 30 years - no ill effects. I use it to disperse moisture - as someone else has said - not for lubrication. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Degalle79 Posted October 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2012 Thanks very much for all your comments, much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paddy Galore! Posted October 4, 2012 Report Share Posted October 4, 2012 the only problem with wd40 is its residue can gum up, not a problem if you're wiping it down, but not good for the action, it'll wash the grease out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-Mongrel- Posted October 4, 2012 Report Share Posted October 4, 2012 Re-grease it when you've cleaned it then. If it's exposed to spray, it's exposed to re-grease. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
figgy Posted October 5, 2012 Report Share Posted October 5, 2012 Put it in a bin bag with plenty of dry rice and leave for a day or so it will pull the water out where you can't get then Re oil. Figgy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Degalle79 Posted October 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2012 That's it all sorted now, eventually. I hadn't got the proper tool to remove stock from action so I had done as much as possible including ejectors, which btw are so easy removed, thanks mudpatten. Gun shop sorted the rest for me, sprayed it with proper cleaning gear etc. happier now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Fuzzy-pigeon Posted October 6, 2012 Report Share Posted October 6, 2012 the problem with WD-40 is that its water based and doesnt protect after its displaced the kak, so after using WD-40 dry off with rags and then apply a oil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paddy Galore! Posted October 7, 2012 Report Share Posted October 7, 2012 the problem with WD-40 is that its water based and doesnt protect after its displaced the kak, so after using WD-40 dry off with rags and then apply a oil really? it burns rather well for a water based "oil" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fireboy Posted October 7, 2012 Report Share Posted October 7, 2012 Myth: WD-40 Multi-Use Product is not really a lubricant. Fact: While the “W-D” in WD-40 stands for Water Displacement, WD-40 Multi-Use Product is a unique, special blend of lubricants. The product’s formulation also contains anti-corrosion agents and ingredients for penetration, water displacement and soil removal. from wd 40 web site Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-Mongrel- Posted October 7, 2012 Report Share Posted October 7, 2012 ... Note I said cleaning. For protection, once the gun has been cleaned, it is then wiped over and barrels pulled through with a protective oil, personally I use 3-in-1. the problem with WD-40 is that its water based and doesnt protect after its displaced the kak, so after using WD-40 dry off with rags and then apply a oil Is there an echo in here? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Al Posted September 14, 2013 Report Share Posted September 14, 2013 I'm resurecting this thread to ask for clarification. Thank you to all contributors - the thread has been very useful after I took an unplanned swim in Lough Neagh this morning! I have removed the stock of my browning b525 and have flushed out the action with wd40. My question is about the next step after everthing has dried out at room temperature. I was going to liberally apply legia spray, let the excess run off and replace the stock but would like to know if there are parts of the action I should be greasing rather than oiling. I know grease can be a doubled edged sword in that while it lubricates, it id also a muck and grit magnet! Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnfromUK Posted September 15, 2013 Report Share Posted September 15, 2013 (edited) As a rough guide, where things have a low movement speed, high pressure and easy access to apply and clean off, clean well then apply a very thin smear of grease. Just wipe it off (taking the dirt and grit) each time you clean and renew it. Such places are joint pins, bolt surfaces etc. Where the movement is fast, pressure light, then a light oil is easier and works its way in more easily. A very thin film of oil prevents corrosion. Loose running oil can soak into the wood and damage it over time. In all cases, the key is 'clean, little and often' and clean the old off each time taking away any dirt and grit. Just adding more makes an oily/greasy/gritty mess that is bad for both metal and wood. Edited September 15, 2013 by JohnfromUK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
utectok Posted September 15, 2013 Report Share Posted September 15, 2013 Only thing that stops my gun from getting rusty on the foreshore is http://www.acf-50.co.uk/acf-50.htm Tip from PW use it on all guns now including actions Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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