HW95J Posted December 7, 2012 Report Share Posted December 7, 2012 The title alone I imagine will have put some people off as its a regularly explored topic! However I can't find a post anywhere relating to my precise situation so here we go. I am hardly a DIY god so forgive my ignorance but I need advice on installing my gun safe, It is a safe that can store 3 or 4 assembled guns that I was given by a friend retiring from the shooting world. I intend to install it in a cupboard but my question is does cavity wall insulation affect in any way the fixing of it onto the wall? My house is new-build and all the walls are cavity insulated I wasn't sure if this affects where you can place screws/bolts. Also is it advisable to hire someone like a joiner to install it for me? I hate to think what damage I'd do If I was let loose with a drill! Thanks for your responses BenGun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Therealchucknorris Posted December 7, 2012 Report Share Posted December 7, 2012 I'm in a new build as well and have mine fitted to an internal wall within a cupboard and I didn't have any issues when the FLO came over. Just remember it's best to fit a small platform or cut the skirting board away so it sits flush to the wall. Good luck with the fitting, I got my brother in law (who's a chippy) to fit mine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_b_wales Posted December 7, 2012 Report Share Posted December 7, 2012 Cavity walls should'nt be a problem. Also, if you can bolt the cabinet into the floor as well, that will make it more secure. Most of my cabinets are fitted into cavity walls, and I've never had a complaint off the FEO. I would cut a section out of the skirting board, if you have one, as that makes it easier to screw the cabinet into the floor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kent Posted December 7, 2012 Report Share Posted December 7, 2012 Seriously watch out drilling the floor, pipes and possibly cables can totally spoil your day, being new build you will be into chipboard upstairs unless you pick up a joist, not the stongest material. The commonly used expanding Rawl bolt should not penetrate the inner wall into the cavity if the holes are correctly drilled. I dont fix to the floor but i do try for a corner were i can put fixings through the side at 90 degrees oposing (makes leverage very hard). My current safes are bolted, bricked in and hidden - just do what you can. Perhaps if you mentioned a town location there might be someone who might help you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evo Posted December 7, 2012 Report Share Posted December 7, 2012 sorry but is this topic not in the wrong section Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pigeonblasterian Posted December 7, 2012 Report Share Posted December 7, 2012 Cavity wall insulation makes no difference.Just get the right bolts for the job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polester Posted December 7, 2012 Report Share Posted December 7, 2012 Do you know if the walls are concrete block or thermalite as this will effect what type of fixings you use Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simjakcal Posted December 7, 2012 Report Share Posted December 7, 2012 my walls are thermalite and i had to use studded bar fixed into the walls with a resin first,,then offer the cabinate onto the studded bar and fix with washers and nuts...,,got all i need cheap enuff from screwfix...to save cutting the skirting board i raised the cabinet up on a piece of breezblock ! the fao was more than happy with this.. as said put ur location up and someone local im sure would be willing to help you out,,,never know you may get a shooting buddy as well ........... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Rizzini Posted December 7, 2012 Report Share Posted December 7, 2012 my walls are thermalite and i had to use studded bar fixed into the walls with a resin first,,then offer the cabinate onto the studded bar and fix with washers and nuts...,,got all i need cheap enuff from screwfix...to save cutting the skirting board i raised the cabinet up on a piece of breezblock ! the fao was more than happy with this.. as said put ur location up and someone local im sure would be willing to help you out,,,never know you may get a shooting buddy as well ........... +1 I have always fitted my cabinets above the skirting board and if the wall aint level when the cabinets side is touching it, keep it well out not to leave an easy gap for a crowbar as moving it out leaves no leaverage. My walls where poured cement and I found my dads SDS drill was woth its weight in gold. Finding someone local who has already fitted a safe will be able to put your's up and save you a lot of hassle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HW95J Posted December 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2012 Thanks for the help guys, I'm of a mind to make one of the relatives earn their keep this Christmas as they are know what they are doing when it comes to DIY! There are two suitable cupboards and after considering some of your suggestions I've decided I'll go with downstairs to save the extra hassle of skirting board alteration (I wasn't too worried about this previously as anything seems possible after a few malts by the fire ). One thing that threw me was that the screws used to secure the cabinet previously are included in the ammo compartment at the top but they are 1 inch long regular looking things and they certainly don't look sufficient but I could well be wrong. Its the images in my mind of resin fixings and huge bolts that made me doubt my practical skills! I could probably attach a pic of the screws and washers if that would help? If you guys think they sound ok then I might even attempt the job myself after all. Thanks again for your input Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Rizzini Posted December 8, 2012 Report Share Posted December 8, 2012 I dont think screws would do the job. I use rawl bolts , I would use anything less than m10 to be honest Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDAV Posted December 8, 2012 Report Share Posted December 8, 2012 It's all about the right fixing for the wall material anything offering high fixing strength and suitable for the wall would be fine, it's to prevent "opportunist theft" not determined and sustained attach by power tools afterall it's 2mm steel not 2" armour plating! The Fischer website is useful Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Rizzini Posted December 8, 2012 Report Share Posted December 8, 2012 Thats very true, it wouldn't matter what safe it was is the theif used a angle grinder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Mat Posted December 8, 2012 Report Share Posted December 8, 2012 I drilled 4 holes in the wall and epoxy resin'd 4 m10 threaded bars in, cabinet then just slid onto bars and i did it up with the nuts! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bravo2 Posted December 8, 2012 Report Share Posted December 8, 2012 M10 threaded bar held in with resin - much better than expanding bolts. Then bolt with big washers. This stuff is simple to use and seems to do the job: http://www.screwfix.com/p/fischer-resin-capsules-10-x-90mm-pack-of-10/65183?cm_sp=Search-_-SearchRec-_-Area1&_requestid=1029619 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clakk Posted December 8, 2012 Report Share Posted December 8, 2012 12mm rawlbolts to the wall after coating the back n bottom of the safes with epoxy resin and to add a bit of delay to any attack ive rawl anchored two chains across the safes ,as u say angle grinders eat 2mm steel but every minute extra delay helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy51322 Posted December 8, 2012 Report Share Posted December 8, 2012 http://www.homeoffice.gov.uk/publications/police/firearms/security_leaflet.pdf?view=Binary Have a read through the site this link takes you too, I found it pretty helpful, with regards to you're fittings a good builders merchants will suggest the best and strongest fittings to use for you're wall type. Best of luck and happy shooting fella. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cosmicblue Posted December 9, 2012 Report Share Posted December 9, 2012 I've had poor experiences with expanding Rawlbolts - they work fine in brick but tend to shatter thermalite/breeze blocks that most modern houses have behind the pasterboard on the ground floor (plan Bs are limited when its behind the plasterboard). On recommendation I used Excalibur Screwbolts - you drill a hole (of the right size) and just screw the bolt into the wall - it cuts its own thread straight into the block. It's very strong (my FAO couldn't even rock the cabinet a Brattonsound SL5+) on its fixings and he really pulled at it - so much so that I had to print the website details off for him to add to his personal folder - http://www.excaliburscrewbolts.com/ Look up your local fastener company (nut,bolts, screws etc) to buy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chady Posted December 9, 2012 Report Share Posted December 9, 2012 Just a note for people withe dot and dab plaster boards if you are fixing on to this I recommend you pack the void out to stop cracking the plasterboard as you tighten the fixing. B and q screw fix and wicks sell square washers pm me if you want exact details. I resin fixed bars in my wall once set i put one washer on bar drew round and removed washer. I then cut the section of plasterboard out and put enough washers in to pack out to the service of the plaster board Do this to all fixing points then slide cabinet on put another square washer on and nut and do up. Ps you do not need to over tighten the nuts I used non slip nuts and used a spanner!!! Not a socket set!! Just enough to keep safe tight to wall. If you use resin and bars for your safe once you put all bars in slide safe onto bars while resin sets then they will set it the right place Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Night blaster Posted December 9, 2012 Report Share Posted December 9, 2012 I had the same situation, in the end I made a small platform to raise the cabinet above the skirting, I then stuck a piece of 20 mm ply to the wall using "stick like s***" the width of the cabinet. Then just found the thickest wood screws, screwed as many in as holes would allow, (had to pilot drill first) Job done, the officer who inspected its said it was the best most secure one he had seen in the house of my type. I can email a few photo's if you want Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harris2006 Posted December 9, 2012 Report Share Posted December 9, 2012 I've used hilti bolts into a block wall and even tried to pull it off the wall in front of the flo and he was more than happy, fitted a mats the same way and flo was happy again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sako7mm Posted December 9, 2012 Report Share Posted December 9, 2012 10x100 mm frame fixings, the screw and plug combo used to fix window and door frames in place, are just right for fixing into lightweight blockwork. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marksman1997 Posted February 12, 2015 Report Share Posted February 12, 2015 I would use Thunderbolts all day long! Way easier installed just threads in! I used 4 M12 x 75mm Thunderbolts on my 120kg Liberty Safe and bolted it above Skirting Board! (Had to lay out books of the correct height as it would be impossible to hold up! i have to admit i was doubting it myself but we screwed the first one in and then noticed that one bolt once tightened had pulled the whole safe off the books just slightly and wasn't touching at all!) STRONG STUFF! Also i choose them as they are removable and i am 18 so live with parents but when i leave i can just thread out and take the safe with me! (Plus the bolts are even Re-Usable) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek642 Posted August 30, 2020 Report Share Posted August 30, 2020 How do I go about fitting a safe to the wall with a false wall.. got brick on the outer skin but a timber inner wall...? Yes it’s a barrat house! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scully Posted August 31, 2020 Report Share Posted August 31, 2020 Chemical fixings or plasterboard ‘wing’ screws which expand their wings as you tighten them. You will have to cut out a piece of skirting to get your cabinet flush to the wall. Another way is to fix your cabinet with ‘timberlocks’ down one side through either the left hand or right hand fixing points, to a stud, which can be found from any internal corner at either 400 or 600 centres. The other side can be fixed as previously mentioned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.