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Simple Question - Dry Firing


Tom1989
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Hi everyone,

 

I'm knew to the scene of clay pigeon shooting. Just bought my first gun (Browning 325).

 

I've read that you can damage the firing pin through Dry firing. The other day, I was cleaning my gun and accidentally pressed the trigger twice! (obviously, gun was unloaded as it was broken down). Now does this mean that I may have damaged the firing pin or would this have to be repeatedly to cause any problems. BTW I haven't been shooting since.

 

Thanks,

 

Tom

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If they can break its best it happens while dry firing and not in the field...

 

I've spent the last 3 days dry firing an SA80 in drills all day!!! If it harmed it, they wouldn't let you do it... Just my opinion

 

 

The L85 is built to be grunt proof!

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If they can break its best it happens while dry firing and not in the field...

 

I've spent the last 3 days dry firing an SA80 in drills all day!!! If it harmed it, they wouldn't let you do it... Just my opinion

plug cap lol :)

Private joke

Edited by team tractor
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Hi everyone,

 

I'm knew to the scene of clay pigeon shooting. Just bought my first gun (Browning 325).

 

I've read that you can damage the firing pin through Dry firing. The other day, I was cleaning my gun and accidentally pressed the trigger twice! (obviously, gun was unloaded as it was broken down). Now does this mean that I may have damaged the firing pin or would this have to be repeatedly to cause any problems. BTW I haven't been shooting since.

 

Thanks,

 

Tom

Edited by chrispti
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Why?

Because the Shock of the Pin being driven forward, it does not have a STOP so to speak, so the spring compress`s, and hits the pin dia, which in turn will Break the firing pin, simple engineeering really, and yes I do make a few for friends ,till they learn.lol.

SNAP CAPS Always: on Dry firing: use the old cases (ONCE) only: BUT ensure they have been Fired: :lol::yes:

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Because the Shock of the Pin being driven forward, it does not have a STOP so to speak, so the spring compress`s, and hits the pin dia, which in turn will Break the firing pin, simple engineeering really, and yes I do make a few for friends ,till they learn.lol.

SNAP CAPS Always: on Dry firing: use the old cases (ONCE) only: BUT ensure they have been Fired: :lol::yes:

 

Just out of curiosity, why is it not a good idea to use the old cases more than once (as a substitute to a snap cap)? But in my case, a snap cap would have been useless since I accidentally discharged the shotgun during cleaning.

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Just out of curiosity, why is it not a good idea to use the old cases more than once (as a substitute to a snap cap)? But in my case, a snap cap would have been useless since I accidentally discharged the shotgun during cleaning.

Probably not the best way to put it. Makes it sound (to those who come in to the bottom of the thread) like the gun was fired while being cleaned

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Hard to believe that the modern gun makers have not solved this old problem, or have they and told nobody

 

Could be like those idiots who drive in fog on sidelights as they think headlights will drain their battery like on the pre 70's cars and faulty regulators

Edited by ChrisAsh
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Snap caps may well have a use in some older guns, but if the metalwork and springs on NEW shotguns requires Snap Caps you have got a problem.

 

Also note that snap caps ALWAYS leave "some" pressure on the spring, therefore making it weaker in action when left stored for any time, if we are to believe all these tales of metal fatigue and damage! :/:good:

 

How often do you need to dry fire anyway, perhaps whilst assembly/disassembly/cleaning, if your pin and spring can't deal with that it is a very sorry state!

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Not getting into the debate about snap caps but just to put your mind at rest I went down to shoot the Beretta worlds and the importers resident gunsmith had a stand to work on the guns, he replaced my top locking bar and re-timed the ejectors.

 

He dry fired my gun loads of times while working on it, not a snap cap in sight, he also did the same to all the other guns he was working on whilst I was there.

 

I am not recommending you dry fire but obviously the Beretta gunsmith doesn't feel it's an issue on modern Beretta's otherwise he would have been using snap caps and if you send your gun back to the Beretta importers for any work it is going to be dry fired if my experience is anything to go by.

 

So don't worry about it.

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Not getting into the debate about snap caps but just to put your mind at rest I went down to shoot the Beretta worlds and the importers resident gunsmith had a stand to work on the guns, he replaced my top locking bar and re-timed the ejectors.

 

He dry fired my gun loads of times while working on it, not a snap cap in sight, he also did the same to all the other guns he was working on whilst I was there.

 

I am not recommending you dry fire but obviously the Beretta gunsmith doesn't feel it's an issue on modern Beretta's otherwise he would have been using snap caps and if you send your gun back to the Beretta importers for any work it is going to be dry fired if my experience is anything to go by.

 

So don't worry about it.

I have just had (a well known local gunsmith who had some input to the design of one of the 68? series Beretta shotguns and works at Bisley) an intermittent bottom barrel misfiring problem sorted out, he dry fired it quite a few times...... he also said there's no need for snap caps.
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I have always been advised that the age of the gun should be the determining factor in repeated dry firing. I have an old H&H and would never dry fire it. My beretta 687 is a very different matter. To add to the complexity however, if your gun is an ejector, once fired the ejector is cocked so using snap caps means the ejectors remain under pressure? so which is the more important if you want to release the springs ?

I find firing them and cleaning them seems to work for me so I never use snap caps to deliberately relax the hammer springs.

I'd be interested to know if this is what others do though?

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