kent Posted January 9, 2014 Report Share Posted January 9, 2014 I was once many years ago asked this question as one of a number of people, I wonder what PW has to say on the subject? How many shots should it take to zero a rifle? CF, RF or air can all be included as one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Traztaz Posted January 9, 2014 Report Share Posted January 9, 2014 That is a question that is the same as how long is a bit of string. Many variables here to concider, ie how well bore sighted is it, can the shooter shoot, how good is he at making adjustment to the sighting mechanism, etc etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
casts_by_fly Posted January 9, 2014 Report Share Posted January 9, 2014 In all cases we have to assume that the scope has reliable clicks and the shooter knows what they are doing. I'm also going to assume that we're not talking about long range and we're not talking competition target. are we talking a newly assembled rifle/scope/load combo (as if I had just bought it all at the shop) or a known rifle with a new load or scope (i.e. changing from a deer load to a fox load or similar)? If the latter, then theoretically you should be able to change your clicks from load to load and fire only 1 confirming 'zero' shot. If you are absolutely confident in your clicks, then you might not even need that 1. That's not what I call zeroing a rifle though some do. If you're talking about a completely brand new centerfire setup, then you should be able to get it close to zeroed at 100 yards in 3 shots (bore sight, 1 shot at 25 to confirm bore sight, 1 at 100 to check 25 yard assumptions, 1 more after corrections). Next step would be to see how it is grouping with at least 4 more shots on the same bull. Depending on the final application and accuracy requirements, if this load shoots well enough then I'd dial in the zero based on the center of the 5 shot group. So I guess that is 7 shots at a minimum for a brand new setup (none of which takes into account a break in process as everyone's will vary). That's about the point where I'd say it is zeroed. From there I usually dial in my rifles with a bit more shooting, more shots in a group (10) and really get a good average center of the group. Rimfire is the same, though the distances change accordingly. I will always try a couple different brands/loads since there is no handloading involved. I have no experience with air, but I'd probably approach it the same way (distance changing again). thanks,rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dekers Posted January 9, 2014 Report Share Posted January 9, 2014 As many as it takes, but as #4, 3 should do it quite comfortably from nothing. I'd still want a few more to iron out any variables! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RED BEARD Posted January 9, 2014 Report Share Posted January 9, 2014 As many as it takes I'd say. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zetter Posted January 9, 2014 Report Share Posted January 9, 2014 (edited) Air Rifle with a new setup about 12 for me as I will shoot 3 shot groups each time to ensure correct impact point. Also pellets are cheap so I dont bother with a boresight if its off the paper get a bigger bit of paper Edited January 9, 2014 by Zetter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malkiserow Posted January 9, 2014 Report Share Posted January 9, 2014 To reduce shots and make it easier (to see mostly by reducing walking) I put a large piece of paper up with the target in the middle of it at what I want the first cross over point (trajectory+line of sight) to be.... especially with a centrefire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robbiep Posted January 9, 2014 Report Share Posted January 9, 2014 From there I usually dial in my rifles with a bit more shooting, more shots in a group (10) and really get a good average center of the group.... ...I have no experience with air, but I'd probably approach it the same way (distance changing again)... thanks, rick That's the real trick. Tight groups. If you can't reliably put bullet or pellet onto each other, then either your setup need looking at (scope moving, etc) or it's your technique. 10 shot groups might seem like a lot, but it really tells you a lot about the quality of your shooting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zetter Posted January 9, 2014 Report Share Posted January 9, 2014 That's the real trick. Tight groups. If you can't reliably put bullet or pellet onto each other, then either your setup need looking at (scope moving, etc) or it's your technique. 10 shot groups might seem like a lot, but it really tells you a lot about the quality of your shooting. I have always though with air at least 5 shot groups are a minimum to see if your setup is working correctly and you have the correct pellets for the barrel, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robbiep Posted January 9, 2014 Report Share Posted January 9, 2014 Absolutely. If I'm checking zero on an air rifle, it's always 10 pellets. Pellets are cheap, and I don't like leaving wounded quarry. RF is pretty cheap too. CF is obviously a lot more expensive to fire, but if you're good enough to be using CF, then your technique and setup should allow for 3 round groups. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DTS Posted January 9, 2014 Report Share Posted January 9, 2014 It depends on how far that first shot is off when brand new. I bought a new one rifle and scope last week and the first shot was off left and low by 8 inches and took some correcting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dekers Posted January 9, 2014 Report Share Posted January 9, 2014 It depends on how far that first shot is off when brand new. I bought a new one rifle and scope last week and the first shot was off left and low by 8 inches and took some correcting As per #4 I don't believe it matters how far off it is to start with, if you follow this advice! Bore sight it by eye (or even a Boresighter if you must), first shot 25 yards and adjust scope, second shot 100yards on the paper, 3rd shot should be on the nose with adjustment from a scope that dials correctly! Anything after that should simply be belt and braces to make sure... 3 shots and the job should be done! I suspect some may actually say 2 shots, being able to bore sight by eye well enough to get the first shot on the paper at 100 yards, the next shot is a simple mathematical calculation and then dial it in!! ATB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harnser Posted January 9, 2014 Report Share Posted January 9, 2014 If I cannot zero a rifle in with 5 shots after bore sighting ,then there is something seriouly wrong with the set up . First bore sight then take your first shot on the paper at 50 yards . Then bore sight on the first hole in the paper keeping the bore of the rifle on the center of the target . Then move back to 100 yards and fire a couple of more shots to ajust . Harnser. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
humperdingle Posted January 9, 2014 Report Share Posted January 9, 2014 One, if the scope is accurate enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1066 Posted January 9, 2014 Report Share Posted January 9, 2014 I've seen a ton of lead thrown down range by shooters "zeroing" rifles and very few seem to have much idea of the principals involved. Many seem content to whack a couple of rounds down range then wind on a few clicks here or there and shoot another couple of rounds and so on, slowly walking their shots towards their aiming mark. This is how I think of the problem: If you can imagine your rifle set in a block of concrete (assuming you have an accurate rifle and ammunition) and shoot a round at a blank sheet of paper. Where that shot falls is where the barrel is pointing, if you shoot another shot or ten they should all theoretically hit the same spot. Now, plonk a scope on the rifle, leaving your rifle still set in the block of concrete, and there's not a chance in a thousand the reticule will be lined up with you shot holes but it's a very simple matter to just wind them over to line up with the shot holes in one go, it doesn't matter if you 1/4 or 1/8, mils or mm clicks . Now the reticule and the shot holes are pointing at the same place all the rest is easy. (range, parallax, etc. etc.) This is a quick video I shot with my phonecam of how it works.: Best viewed with a PC not a tablet or phone. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qwD5zu7yTeI Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daz1986 Posted February 4, 2014 Report Share Posted February 4, 2014 In this day and age with the tech we have available you should be able to get a good zero with 2 rounds! if your using some standard methods i.e bore sight, for a good accurate zero i always fire 3-5 rounds at a select point ( reason i fire 3-5 is all to do with grouping- if your shots are all over you won't get a good zero) take your time and get them shots as tight as possible and then work in from there! once on the mark i check zero and work my way back to different ranges adjusting the MOA jotting down my adjustments for my ranges. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bornfree Posted February 4, 2014 Report Share Posted February 4, 2014 (edited) I've seen a ton of lead thrown down range by shooters "zeroing" rifles and very few seem to have much idea of the principals involved. Many seem content to whack a couple of rounds down range then wind on a few clicks here or there and shoot another couple of rounds and so on, slowly walking their shots towards their aiming mark. This is how I think of the problem: If you can imagine your rifle set in a block of concrete (assuming you have an accurate rifle and ammunition) and shoot a round at a blank sheet of paper. Where that shot falls is where the barrel is pointing, if you shoot another shot or ten they should all theoretically hit the same spot. Now, plonk a scope on the rifle, leaving your rifle still set in the block of concrete, and there's not a chance in a thousand the reticule will be lined up with you shot holes but it's a very simple matter to just wind them over to line up with the shot holes in one go, it doesn't matter if you 1/4 or 1/8, mils or mm clicks . Now the reticule and the shot holes are pointing at the same place all the rest is easy. (range, parallax, etc. etc.) This is a quick video I shot with my phonecam of how it works.: Best viewed with a PC not a tablet or phone. I tried this and it works perfectly thanks.but getting the rifle out of the set concrete was a bit of a problem. Edited February 4, 2014 by bornfree Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1066 Posted February 4, 2014 Report Share Posted February 4, 2014 I tried this and it works perfectly thanks.but getting the rifle out of the set concrete was a bit of a problem. Ahh! I forgot to mention you should have covered the rifle with a release agent - Butter or boot polish would work ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
activeviii Posted February 4, 2014 Report Share Posted February 4, 2014 (edited) using the right target and with a rifle/bullet combo i know is good then i do with 2 shots but then a five group to be 100% Edited February 4, 2014 by activeviii Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-Mongrel- Posted February 4, 2014 Report Share Posted February 4, 2014 Probably 3 or 4 shots with an air rifle to get a good zero. Then another 10 probably at various different ranges to verify hold over/under. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottoj18 Posted February 4, 2014 Report Share Posted February 4, 2014 A air rifle from new can take a whole tin just to settle in ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nuke Posted February 4, 2014 Report Share Posted February 4, 2014 I always shoot groups of 3 shots, CF-rifle, caliber 9,3x62. When 0-ing I always use the same front and rear rest, when I got a good match between point of aim and group I shoot another group of 3 with a different rest/support to get an aditional check. Usually takes 9-12 rounds to get it done. /Markus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-Mongrel- Posted February 4, 2014 Report Share Posted February 4, 2014 A air rifle from new can take a whole tin just to settle in ... Very true, but I thought we were discussing how many to zero a scope in rather than how long for a gun to shoot consistently? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mentalmac Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 I do the whole 2 shot thing like in 1066's video. Then I do a 5 shot group to check (somewhere else on the sheet) and admire my grouping and parade about a bit and wave the bit of paper around a bit and I'm done. I made a purpose built wooden frame for holding the rifle in the garage with offcuts and half an hour. Looks a bit crude but it keeps rifle set in place nicely for zeroing. (nice deep cut V shapes with a bit of old rubber lining the wood so I don't mark the stock. Much cheaper than buying one of those expensive bench rest things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tignme Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 I do my zeroing off a five legged set of sticks,rock steady and use 1066 s method. 2 shots and go on to double check accuracy. i reload so plinking with centre fire is fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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