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ditchman
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well ive been in the shed for 1/2 an hour..............thats the lot...just toooo cold touching metal...and the grease in the grease gun has gone stiff........found out why the shaft was stuck...the machine had been taken apart a long while ago...and the grease nipples were changed for 45deg' ones...whyich were wrong as you cant get the grease gun on them at that angle ...they need to be 90deg' ones.........

also the drive roller is missing a spacer it moves side to side about 1/3"....i need to get this sorted otherwise my plunge cut wont be good enough as the belt will wander...but apart from all that it just needs tidying up grinding a few sharp edges of the table...ready for to drill and tap a new 3/4" plate elevated table on it....i will nip down to Acle to see if they have got something that can be cut and milled to fit....ive got 1/2" plate but that is not enough.............

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sooooo....had a phone round this morning...got someone to make a raised bed for the machine 100mm x 220mm x 20mm.........chamfer ends to 30deg  ...mill flat......£50 quid.......so that ok will pick it up end of the week...........

need new roller bearings....only phoned one place and they are a bit pricey...£8.50 each and i want 3...so i will wait till my usual guy gets back from his hols tomorrow....

 

still tooo damn cold to work in the shed but at least things are moving

 

ditch

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42 minutes ago, ditchman said:

need new roller bearings....only phoned one place and they are a bit pricey...£8.50 each and i want 3...so i will wait till my usual guy gets back from his hols tomorrow....

Take a look on eBay - wide choice of roller bearings at a range of prices

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313.TR7.TRC1.A0.H1.Xroller+bearings.TRS0&_nkw=roller+bearings&_sacat=0

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On 03/02/2018 at 15:22, ditchman said:

doing the drive roller was an utter nightmare....the main drive shaft had rusted onto the inside of the roller...and because the machine is cast...you cant smack it with a hammer.....just had to use a little heat and a set of stilsons to twist it to get it mooving...........

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first pic of the roller...is weird......the bloke who did the casting must have been off his head as he couldnt get the casting straight.....anyway it was straightened up in the lathe when it was bored out.......just looks funny as it is off-centre

 

starting to clean up the bits now.................

 

thats yer lot for today as im cold and have stuff to do.........

enjoy..:yahoo:

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Bet they were easy to polish up on your new linisher ?

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1 hour ago, TIGHTCHOKE said:

Did he buy two?

dont get him at it.................:lol:...............

 

managed to bottom out this heat treating of 01 tool steel....................on steve Cashan's website...the knives are mouthwatering...hundreds of pounds each one............

he uses the old methods...hammers...forge ...muscle power......................he says FGS/o1 steel is the best....harden using a magnet plunge into pre-warmed cooking oil...then put in kitchen oven for 2 hours to you applicaton...inbetween 175-230degs and temper................i know o1 is and oil hardening steel but some people prefer to temper in cold water

have you lot any opinion on this method ?

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24 minutes ago, ditchman said:

dont get him at it................................

 

managed to bottom out this heat treating of 01 tool steel....................on steve Cashan's website...the knives are mouthwatering...hundreds of pounds each one............

he uses the old methods...hammers...forge ...muscle power......................he says FGS/o1 steel is the best....harden using a magnet plunge into pre-warmed cooking oil...then put in kitchen oven for 2 hours to you applicaton...inbetween 175-230degs and temper................i know o1 is and oil hardening steel but some people prefer to temper in cold water

have you lot any opinion on this method ?

What gas mark is that ?:lol:

Loving the thread.

atb

7diaw

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I am certainly no expert at this game. I follow a system very similar which I saw on you tube many moons ago.  I follow that rule as above, but don't pre warm the veg oil, I will next time and I put the blade in the oven as described. I just roll about an inch of the cutting edge back and forth in the oil which I believe leaves the spine/handle still flexible and less likely to break, although these are knives not crowbars.  I have two commercially made knives which are un believably hard and having used them for some time they needed sharpening, what a game that was and had to resort to the wet wheel to get an edge back.   I do believe that blades can be just too hard. 

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26 minutes ago, bigman said:

If you fancy a visit from the tink fairy then waters good , o1 is a oil hardening steel the o is for oil the warmer the oil the faster the quench will be,  I aim for 75degrees 

 

i mean quench in oil first to harden.....then when coming from the oven at tempering temp...........some people prefer to temper in water...........is this right or wrong will it at that temp cause the metal to crack ?

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1 hour ago, ditchman said:

dont get him at it................................

 

managed to bottom out this heat treating of 01 tool steel....................on steve Cashan's website...the knives are mouthwatering...hundreds of pounds each one............

he uses the old methods...hammers...forge ...muscle power......................he says FGS/o1 steel is the best....harden using a magnet plunge into pre-warmed cooking oil...then put in kitchen oven for 2 hours to you applicaton...inbetween 175-230degs and temper................i know o1 is and oil hardening steel but some people prefer to temper in cold water

have you lot any opinion on this method ?

Yes 

listen to big man ? 

I avoid water tempering there’s a lot of variables not for the novice 

O= oil 

there’s the clue 

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46 minutes ago, ditchman said:

i mean quench in oil first to harden.....then when coming from the oven at tempering temp...........some people prefer to temper in water...........is this right or wrong will it at that temp cause the metal to crack ?

I understood this as normalising, cooling down on its own. Putting all the structure back to where it should be. But i could be wrong :lol:

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well me being stupid...i visited this american site again..!!...........every time i ask a question on there...i get such a complicated answer...stuff about what is happening at the atomic level and graphs etc...never an answer to my question...........

sooo i thought i would make it more interesting ...i added 15 pictures of what i was doing ...the strip down of the linisher etc...just so i could make the connection between...the tool steel and the knife bit  making of.:hmm:

then i went back about 4 hours later............and alll the photos had been deleted...and some more totally incomprehensible rubbish ....it was like being in some NASA lecture theatre on a lecture about alien metals and uses from the planet Zog............

soo i had another look around on some of the other related topics.......every single section was virtually devoid of pics...but full of what looked like textbook answers............

and the conclusion i have come to is....they are the biggest Walter Mitty Bullpoopers on the planet................so i have been going to sales websites of knife makers and the answers im getting there are factual....believable....and practical to follow..........

 

if i would have followed the advice on the other USA bladesmithing forum....i would need $20.000 dollars of equipment just for heat treating alone........

god what a bunch of muppets eh :lol:

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12 hours ago, ditchman said:

i mean quench in oil first to harden.....then when coming from the oven at tempering temp...........some people prefer to temper in water...........is this right or wrong will it at that temp cause the metal to crack ?

No need to quench when tempering in an oven, as removing it from the oven will drop the tempter quickly and stop the tempering process, you can then use water to cool it for handling, but if you wish to put it straight into the water from the oven I would use warm water, but the question is why use water?

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42 minutes ago, old'un said:

No need to quench when tempering in an oven, as removing it from the oven will drop the tempter quickly and stop the tempering process, you can then use water to cool it for handling, but if you wish to put it straight into the water from the oven I would use warm water, but the question is why use water?

thank you for that answer................i had been looking for that for 2 days...............the reason i asked about the water bit was i had seen it a couple of times on various webs ....and like you i couldnt understand what the rational was behind it..............its all very well saying "this is what i do"..............but i want to know WHY.................

i can also understand when WALKER like to roll his blade edge in oil when coming ot of the temper oven

the tempering i can understand now...as the temper (low temp) is in effect like unwinding an elastic band a little bit before it snaps...(in the hardened state)

am i right ???

 

will post some more pics up in a while...as i've been cleaning up the casting........................prior to spraying up...........

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Im cleaning up the casting now...................proberly the worst casting i have ever seen ....and thats going sum..........

anyway it looks a lot better now ...ive got all the paints off an ground down all the sharp edges and inperfections....ready for prime and spray............will put it by the woodburner to heat up ...then spray up outside........

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