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HP steel through 3/4 choke


Big Al
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I've just done something new. I've read the manual for my gun.

I own 2 B525s, a grade 1 and a grade 5 and when it comes to hp steel I've always stuck to conventional advice and used no tighter than half choke. 

However,  on reading the B525 manual, it seems that they advocate using hp steel through 3/4 invector plus choke also. Hmmm. News to me.

I was wondering if anyone in PW has used HP steel through the factory 3/4 choke. I'm tempted to try it on my first duck flight on Saturday. 

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I’ve used Gamebore HP steel through a none steel proofed fixed 3/4 choked self loader and through old Winchester 101’s, but nothing tighter than half ( but only because I had nothing tighter ) in the latter. 

I think there are several PW members who regularly shoot HP steel through full. 

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5 minutes ago, Scully said:

I’ve used Gamebore HP steel through a none steel proofed fixed 3/4 choked self loader and through old Winchester 101’s, but nothing tighter than half ( but only because I had nothing tighter ) in the latter. 

I think there are several PW members who regularly shoot HP steel through full. 

Thanks Scully. 

Good to know - If Browning say it's ok then I suppose I shouldn't even have asked. I always like to touch base to see if anyone else does it.

I'll be trying it on Saturday then .....

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44 minutes ago, Scully said:

I think there are several PW members who regularly shoot HP steel through full. 

On non steel proof guns or guns that are proofed for steel? 

 

I have a spanish master sxs with 1/2 and full and wondered if I can shoot non HP steel but have mixed responses. 

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I would use 3/4 choke with no fear. Too many people are scared of using steel in tighter chokes, due to misinformation.

On last months Sporting Gun magazine, the editor wrote that barrels would open up like a banana if you were to use 3/4 choke or tighter with steel! Load of bull!

Edited by motty
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8 hours ago, Lloyd90 said:

On non steel proof guns or guns that are proofed for steel? 

 

I have a spanish master sxs with 1/2 and full and wondered if I can shoot non HP steel but have mixed responses. 

The only gun Ive ever owned which is steel proof is a Benelli self loader, and I’ve never shot steel through it yet. 

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Due to being worried about litigation if your gun was ruined they state the half choke rule.

Fowler's both sides of the pond have been using extra tight chokes like turkey chokes for duck and goose carts for years. Some manufacturers are making full chokes for steel. 

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I only have Briley extended xtra full. Have used factory internal full, just don't throw as good a pattern with steel or lead. No marks to the choke or barrel off using steel. There is only around 1mm difference between cylinder and full. So half a mil from half to full. The wad is thicker than that so the plastic gives a fair bit as it passes the choke.

With invector plus being back bored the choke at full extra full does not impact the wad and pellets the same as a nominal bored gun with same choke.

Edited by figgy
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On 04/09/2019 at 23:42, motty said:

I would use 3/4 choke with no fear. Too many people are scared of using steel in tighter chokes, due to misinformation.

On last months Sporting Gun magazine, the editor wrote that barrels would open up like a banana if you were to use 3/4 choke or tighter with steel! Load of bull!

I'm glad you're thinking this way. Way too much misinformation out there. One article some time ago said steel will kill off all side by sides out there.  And we wonder why side by sides are declining in sales.  I can't believe the c rap that idiots write in magazines. As if they really know what they are talking about. No it won't kill off side by sides. It would only be wise to have your barrels looked at by a barrel maker or a competent gunsmith to advise on whether the chokes/barrels are suitable to accept steel.. that's all. And maybe ultimately get it steel proofed if you're that concerned.

I was making side by side and over and under barrels in the 80's for steel shot. I was told they were going to use steel so I made the barrels and choked accordingly... no problem.  It's not the tightness but how the choke is made in the first place. IE the lead in. Lead gives. Steel doesn't. If your chokes are tight and the lead in is sharp you may have to have the chokes "altered". I am of course talking about fixed choke. Most factory fixed chokes I have come across that come in for advice look okay. It's the ones that have already been altered or the bores have been opened up by hone or lap and the choke cone gets sharpened up that I would be looking at to alter to suit.  I have seen lead shot bulge chokes due to some poor honing. And it was only half choke.  My only concern is that I've seen steel mark the bores if not in a plastic wad. I see lately the cartridge manufacturers are working on a wad for this.

 

Now excuse me but I have a bone to go and pick with Sporting gun..........

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Nice to read something sensible from within the trade.

Most toe the party line and qoute the drivel we all hear. The shot now is softer that it was at first. It's not steel it's soft iron, lots softer than most gun barrels especially hard chrome lined ones.  I have had pin hole to the wad from shot and pellets at the top of the column not set back fully on firing you can see along the top.of the wad the marks, so shot touching the barrel on way out. No marks to the barrels or chokes. 

Edited by figgy
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7 hours ago, Fil said:

I'm glad you're thinking this way. Way too much misinformation out there. One article some time ago said steel will kill off all side by sides out there.  And we wonder why side by sides are declining in sales.  I can't believe the c rap that idiots write in magazines. As if they really know what they are talking about. No it won't kill off side by sides. It would only be wise to have your barrels looked at by a barrel maker or a competent gunsmith to advise on whether the chokes/barrels are suitable to accept steel.. that's all. And maybe ultimately get it steel proofed if you're that concerned.

I was making side by side and over and under barrels in the 80's for steel shot. I was told they were going to use steel so I made the barrels and choked accordingly... no problem.  It's not the tightness but how the choke is made in the first place. IE the lead in. Lead gives. Steel doesn't. If your chokes are tight and the lead in is sharp you may have to have the chokes "altered". I am of course talking about fixed choke. Most factory fixed chokes I have come across that come in for advice look okay. It's the ones that have already been altered or the bores have been opened up by hone or lap and the choke cone gets sharpened up that I would be looking at to alter to suit.  I have seen lead shot bulge chokes due to some poor honing. And it was only half choke.  My only concern is that I've seen steel mark the bores if not in a plastic wad. I see lately the cartridge manufacturers are working on a wad for this.

 

Now excuse me but I have a bone to go and pick with Sporting gun..........

Good post.

I was going to send an email to the editor of SG, but didn't get around to it. I can't stand blatant lies being told!

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interesting read this.I recall the statements from many here that 1/4 is enough etc etc for steel  a few years back.I recall also taking a shot over water at 40 yards to finish a goose a few seasons back with a 3.5 gamebore #1 and being gobsmacked at how loose and wide the pattern was.I have pondered the geese in the  past, at good ranges,that have  taken 2 barrels when one should have sufficed when i had 1/2 and 1/4 chokes in the gun..But all being said and done,perhaps its time to try one or two experimental rounds with  maybe a steel#2 and 3/4 choke in the yilditz.

Edited by bishop
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