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Cylinder-Cylinder chokes question


Snoozer
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Need some edification folks, new to all this Gun lark.

If a gun is advertised chokes: cylinder-cylinder does that infer that you can't change the chokes as the gun hasn't got any threads in the end of the Barrels ?

Lanber 12g if that's pertinant.

Edited by Snoozer
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Hi I'll try and help, screw in chokes are a recent development, many guns have screw in chokes

 

Choke is a contriction at the muzzle relative to the bore (not all 12 bores are the same diameter!)

 

If it's advertised are cylinder in both barrels it could be there is no choke (rare) or it's listed wrong (common) or its mulichoked but they are missing (possible)

 

Don't be put off by a fixed choke, but extremes such as true cyl or full and full may hamper its effectiveness

 

For general use clays, game, pigeon then around 1/4-1/2 is often ideal.

 

 

You will soon learn the online description of guns is often woeful and the industry generally is indifferent to this fact.

Edited by HDAV
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Or have cut the barrels down, thus removing any choke, as my dad did many years ago when he dropped and badly dent his AYA No.4. A gun that I took on and used to good effect for a few years.

 

 

Hi I'll try and help, screw in chokes are a recent development, many guns have screw in chokes

Choke is a contriction at the muzzle relative to the bore (not all 12 bores are the same diameter!)

If it's advertised are cylinder in both barrels it could be there is no choke (rare) or it's listed wrong (common) or its mulichoked but they are missing (possible)

Don't be put off by a fixed choke, but extremes such as true cyl or full and full may hamper its effectiveness

For general use clays, game, pigeon then around 1/4-1/2 is often ideal.


You will soon learn the online description of guns is often woeful and the industry generally is indifferent to this fact.

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Thanks for clearing that up.

Wouldn't make a good clay Gun then unless they were under my nose :hmm:

Be fine for skeet, but I think it's probably incorrectly listed.

 

I have lost count of the number of times I have phoned to enquire as to the details of a gun advertised online, only to be told it was sold weeks, months ago. Only to see it still listed for sale weeks and months later....

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Thanks for clearing that up.

Wouldn't make a good clay Gun then unless they were under my nose :hmm:

No but if it's a clay gun it's unlikely to be cylinder choke and it may just be the description is wrong. You might get a bargain if everyone else is avoiding it.

I always call about ads and check they have got the chokes and stock length correct as it's so common for them to list things wrong.

Quite often they miss off the stock length when it's been chopped down in the hope you won't ask!

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There are three types of cylinder choke - as said, this sounds very much like a fixed choke gun:

 

First is a gun that shoots a cylinder pattern.

Second is a gun which is truly a cylinder with no restriction what-so-ever.

Third is a gun nominally bored with a couple of points of choke.

 

The first shoots a 40% pattern at 40 yards. If this suits your needs then there's nowt wrong with it. Because what I coming to next is true, the third could well be classed as the first but you can't be sure until it's patterned. You might recognise these figures (percentages), 70,65, 60, 55, 50 and 40. Well, you can forget the 40 as it's there to make things look neat and that's why a cylinder bored gun usually has a few points of choke in order to meet the 40% - ie, the third. The second far more often than not will not meet the 40% and frequently not by quite a margin. These guns have one distinct advantage if you're shooting Starshot. Other than that, you're far better off ensuring that the gun will meet the 40% figure.

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What are they stamped on the lump.

Unless expressly ordered, very few guns barring those perhaps specifically bored for skeet will be stamped with what marks equate to cyl and cyl. Just because one is so advertised it doesn't always mean that that is what was stamped at manufacture. A while back open bores were in vogue and many were opened up and now sit on the RFDs' shelves with very few interested in buying them. I nearly bought a true pair of AYA 25 S/Ls with all barrels cyl. This included the AYA leather motor case to suit and what I was being asked to pay for the lot was less than the retail price of the case. I had Teague standing by to permanently fit 4 chokes of my choice when the guy changed his mind about selling them. :unhappy:

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100% agree Rupert....cyl bored guns will surprise the vast majority of shooters on a clay ground.

 

I'd warrant an ounce of #7 or 1 1/8oz of #6 through cylinder chokes would bring down almost any normal bird. Should give you plenty of margin for error too.

 

You don't need much choke in a 12 gauge unless you're shooting light loads, or larger shot than has traditionally been employed for game shooting (i.e. #5, #4, #3).

Edited by neutron619
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Unless expressly ordered, very few guns barring those perhaps specifically bored for skeet will be stamped with what marks equate to cyl and cyl. Just because one is so advertised it doesn't always mean that that is what was stamped at manufacture. A while back open bores were in vogue and many were opened up and now sit on the RFDs' shelves with very few interested in buying them. I nearly bought a true pair of AYA 25 S/Ls with all barrels cyl. This included the AYA leather motor case to suit and what I was being asked to pay for the lot was less than the retail price of the case. I had Teague standing by to permanently fit 4 chokes of my choice when the guy changed his mind about selling them. :unhappy:

I was trying to determine what the chokes were before modification.

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I'd warrant an ounce of #7 or 1 1/8oz of #6 through cylinder chokes would bring down almost any normal bird. Should give you plenty of margin for error too.

 

You don't need much choke in a 12 gauge unless you're shooting light loads, or larger shot than has traditionally been employed for game shooting (i.e. #5, #4, #3).

As above.

pellets have a mass and a velocity which is the same no matter what the choke. Put the centre of the pattern on the target and it doesn't matter what choke you got.

Edited by fortune
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I'd warrant an ounce of #7 or 1 1/8oz of #6 through cylinder chokes would bring down almost any normal bird. Should give you plenty of margin for error too.

 

You don't need much choke in a 12 gauge unless you're shooting light loads, or larger shot than has traditionally been employed for game shooting (i.e. #5, #4, #3).

I would not like to use cylinder choke for any bird shooting.

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I would not like to use cylinder choke for any bird shooting.

 

Well as it happens, neither would I, but I'm not entirely sure why you've quoted me to say so? :hmm: I think your comment stands on it's own two feet, so to speak, without having to reference anything I've said.

Edited by neutron619
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To those who doubt the effectiveness of cyl chokes might I suggest that you give them a go - at normal ranges and your average pigeon decoying situation you may well be surprised. Lets not forget that muzzle loaders have very little in the way of choke, if any at all, and countless thousands of such guns were used to fill the pot for many years.

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I have always understood true cylinder guns were very cartridge sensitive. Small amounts of choke (e.g. improved cylinder or skeet) give much more consistency whilst retaining an open pattern. I have certainly used very open barrels on clays with good results, but I believe my open gun(s) do have a few thou of muzzle constriction.

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