mad1 Posted March 24, 2020 Report Share Posted March 24, 2020 It's the same temp that they re-powder alloy wheels direct from the factory's etc. I had a cr500 years ago I was on a American forum I think it was something like cr500 riders....lots of info on there,mine was the steel frame but I worked in a powder plant so it was stripped and coated every few weeks!! I bought mine from a lad who bought it to do the weston super mare beach race...he changed his mind once he realized he couldnt open it up in first and stay on it... Mine had a Wisco +2 piston...lots of compression easy once you knew how to start it !! I was also told to turn it just past tdc then let the kick start come back then kick from there,went everytime. Enjoy .... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon R Posted March 24, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2020 Both my lads know how to start them - they raced them in the AMCA - but I never mastered it. My eldest used to kick mine over and tell me not to stall it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paddy Galore! Posted March 25, 2020 Report Share Posted March 25, 2020 On 24/03/2020 at 06:43, ditchman said: i wonder if that will effect the structure of the aluminium...? not certain but heat treating aluminium basically means sticking it in a bath of hot water for a day, it's a little more complicated than that but essentially sub 100 degrees will do it, the stuff melts at around 600 degrees, the excess heat could damage or at least alter the characteristics of the alloy. that bike is starting to come together Gordon, nice job. a friend of mine had a cr500, I couldn't start it either Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon R Posted March 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2020 (edited) Engine back together, with new bearings and seals. Put barrel on and found that when I bought the engines, there were no nuts, only bolts. I have many hundred M10 x 1.50 nuts, but couldn't find a single M10 x 1.25. Had to buy some. Just waiting for them, plus water pump and kickstart seals. I will stick a photo of engine when these arrive, by which time I will have replaced all engine bolts with stainless steel cap heads. First photo is the outer casing - right hand side. Cost £250 - "Just buy it" said Junior. Two new seals - oil and water - back to back and a new bearing. Water pump impeller now installed. Bought the seals on line, yesterday at 4.31pm. Arrived by economy delivery at 9.30am today. Bearing company in Leigh - 14 miles away - very decent service. Edited March 27, 2020 by Gordon R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge911 Posted March 27, 2020 Report Share Posted March 27, 2020 (edited) well done sir this has captured my interest as did ditchy, land rover rebuild the only experience I had with 2 stroke crossers was when I was 18-19 and had a beast of a Yamaha yz465 and then a husky 360 used to scare the poop out me but loved every minute of them even if they were constantly trying to throw me off the back .. if I remember correctly they were both pigs to start as well please will you when finished take some videos of the bike in action once we are allowed to go out and enjoy ourselves again that is !!!! pictures are not my bikes but net images of bikes the same as mine [ did not think of taking / keeping pics back then] Edited March 27, 2020 by hodge911 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon R Posted March 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2020 The M10 x 1.25 nuts arrived and barrel / head now installed properly. Just stuck water pump / clutch casing, clutch cover and kickstart on to see what it would look like. I will be taking the clutch cover off whilst putting bits on the bike - don't want it getting marked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TIGHTCHOKE Posted March 28, 2020 Report Share Posted March 28, 2020 It will be far too nice to get dirty! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted March 28, 2020 Report Share Posted March 28, 2020 i would start it up ride it for 5mins and then drain the oils and water...and hang it on my wall Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackbird Posted March 29, 2020 Report Share Posted March 29, 2020 (edited) This must be one of my favourite topics that’s ever been on pigeon watch, I agree with TIGHTCHOKE & dichman this bike will be to nice to ride. Edited March 29, 2020 by blackbird Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted March 29, 2020 Report Share Posted March 29, 2020 love the stainless steel set screws......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amateur Posted March 29, 2020 Report Share Posted March 29, 2020 (edited) 2 hours ago, ditchman said: love the stainless steel set screws......... You've got to fit stainless if you're going to use the bike. Everything else tarnishes very quickly. I ended up making my own stainless M10×1.25 cap nuts for the engine mounting EN16 studs on mine, because they were just not commercially available Edited March 29, 2020 by amateur Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted March 29, 2020 Report Share Posted March 29, 2020 47 minutes ago, amateur said: You've got to fit stainless if you're going to use the bike. Everything else tarnishes very quickly. I ended up making my own stainless M10×1.25 cap nuts for the engine mounting EN16 studs on mine, because they were just not commercially available when i used to do re-builds i would swap all external stuff out for stainless ....particularly on ali casings........i have spent tooo much time in my life removing stuck standand bolts that had rotted in place in ali casings............ once i was given a v 6 or was it a v12 mecurury inboard motor to rebuild...........80% of all the bolts snapped off...........never again.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amateur Posted March 29, 2020 Report Share Posted March 29, 2020 Yup, you gotta love correcting manufacturer's penny pinching Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
team tractor Posted March 29, 2020 Report Share Posted March 29, 2020 I was looking for mtx 200 to relive my youth then I realised those £600 bikes are now £3000. my mate sold his dt175 for £300 only 12 years ago . What a big mistake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
figgy Posted March 29, 2020 Report Share Posted March 29, 2020 Looking very shiny and nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paddy Galore! Posted March 30, 2020 Report Share Posted March 30, 2020 looking very tidy Gordon, puts my old gal to shame, although it sailed through the mot today Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon R Posted March 30, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2020 I did the airbox - connection to the carb today. Took me about 3 hours. If I had taken more time and checked before cutting, drilling and trying to make it fit, I would have done it in an hour. Nudged the frame which is hanging in the garage. Damaged paint - had to rub it down and start spraying again. Memo - when spraying is over - move it until I need to spray again. I have been trying to work out the cooling hoses set up - connecting a CR500 to CRF 450 radiators - more hoses than inlets / outlets. Stuck a request for help on a CR500 conversion forum. All I got were sales pitches and telling me I would need to re-weld both radiators. I know I can do it without going daft, but Americans seem to want to alter things just for the sake of it. Some seem excellent engineers, whilst others just seem to want to tell you where you have gone wrong - even if you haven't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted March 31, 2020 Report Share Posted March 31, 2020 did you spray a good hard laquer over the paint job ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon R Posted March 31, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2020 (edited) Not done the lacquer as yet. Will have to spray some more over the damaged bit and let it set properly. CRF airbox with hole roughly shaped to accommodate CR500 hose. CR500 hose attached to vinyl square - ready to attach to the airbox. Having damaged the paintwork, I thought I might as well check the engine fit - after the rebuild. Engine mountings were too tight, because of using our spare engine, with no gasket. The paint also narrowed the mountings. After a right fiddle and a degree of filing - no help from Junior, because of the virus - I got in in. It would be more accurate to say I got it in and out three times. That chipped a few more bits, but at least I know it fits. Going to sort out hoses, carb and exhaust fittings then take it out to re-finish the frame properly. Edited March 31, 2020 by Gordon R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon R Posted March 31, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2020 Fitted the sub frame loosely and also the rad valve - hence the gaudy gold bolts. Placed the airbox in the sub frame, connected the carb and it went together first time. Just have to attach the new panel to the old airbox, but I now know the exact position. I was quietly pleased, as I thought it might be a problem. CR500AF builders seem to see it as a hurdle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted March 31, 2020 Report Share Posted March 31, 2020 awesome dude... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon R Posted April 1, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2020 Airbox assembled and riveted. Just let silicone dry and then clean up the whole thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon R Posted April 1, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2020 Been having trouble sorting out a head steady. Most CR500AF builders weld a piece onto the middle of the frame where the seat attaches. I have never liked the system, as it seems unsuited to stopping any vibration. The CRF 450 engine has mounts either side of the upper frame rails, but they didn't line up with the CR500 engine. Bit of cutting brackets and loads of filing later, my head steady is all but done. It isn't possible to run an M10 rod from side to side, as the frame gets in the way. I have ordered some M10 nut couplers, so that I can join up three separate screws and make one solid rod. I can then put nuts either side of the head steady mounts on the cylinder head. Job sorted - nice and solid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strimmer_13 Posted April 1, 2020 Report Share Posted April 1, 2020 I love reading this thread, my mate (who's also a member on here but won't say nowt) is doing up his rg250 atm and just got it running. So I've been having 2 awesome rebuilds to look at 👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon R Posted April 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2020 (edited) After the many coats had set, I dropped the engine back into the frame. In order not to nudge the frame, I took the head and barrel off. Had a struggle to get it in, with no help from junior and not hitting the frame. The hardest bit was holding the barrel and head in one hand, whilst compressing the piston rings with the other. The head steady fits fine and is in for the duration. Fitted sub-frame, which is only four bolts, but all had got clogged with paint - memo for future - plug holes. Had to tap the holes to clean up the threads. Fastened the bike down to an adjustable stand, which should make it a lot easier to work on. Edited April 11, 2020 by Gordon R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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