Me matt Posted December 16, 2016 Report Share Posted December 16, 2016 I was unsure of where to post this; so as per title; I am viewing a new build tomorrow, but unlike my current house (plaster and bricks) the new place is celcon block construction with plaster board stuck on the walls. In my reckoning- using traditional gun cabinet fixings would smash the plaster board pulling it back to the wall as it was tightened, obviously the fitting of a gun cabinet won't be the deciding factor in moving but knowing the solution would be one less thing to worry about. Amy advice form folks that have experienced this would be appreciated. Thank in advance. Me matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digger Posted December 16, 2016 Report Share Posted December 16, 2016 I overcame this in one of my houses by fixing the cabinet to the floor using never ending rod and chemical anchor. FLO was fine with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigmcg Posted December 16, 2016 Report Share Posted December 16, 2016 We are in a new build and I fixed mine to the floor, lying on its back, screwed down into the floor joist bigmcg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesMoody3 Posted December 16, 2016 Report Share Posted December 16, 2016 I'm in a new build and my only option was to bung it in the loft attached to the joists. FLO was fine with it, but did wack his face on the hatch on the way down, must have left a bruise! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaymo Posted December 16, 2016 Report Share Posted December 16, 2016 Chemfix rods through into the celcons-- it need to be securely fixed ( feo cant pull the thing- although I have never had one try) and not Bank of England secure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kennett Posted December 16, 2016 Report Share Posted December 16, 2016 What about using threaded bar and resin? Drill right through into block work, but cut a big enough hole in the plasterboard to put a spacer in, then you can only tighten up to that? I've done it like this on mine, minus the plaster board Ahhhhh beaten to it, that'll teach me for not refreshing before posting! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bb Posted December 16, 2016 Report Share Posted December 16, 2016 I sincerely hope they don't build houses like this in Burnley, Dave would have a field day, and not just with the doors! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victorismyhero Posted December 16, 2016 Report Share Posted December 16, 2016 obtain a 3mm steel plate same size as and drilled to match the back of your cabinet remove plasterboard on BOTH sides of wall to match size of cabinet (here's the hard bit) drill through wall at accurate right angle on all fixing holes fasten plate and cabinet together with wall inbetween use shear head nuts on plate side and high tensile bolts tighten till it squeaks and the head of shear nut detatches cut projecting excess bolt off on "nut side" replace plaster board on plate side/make good the cabinet will now be effectively "sunk" into wall by the depth of plaster board and dot'n'dab make surround to hide raw edges and build cupboard round cabinet job jobbed if they want to remove THAT...they will have to pull the wall down Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ollieollie Posted December 16, 2016 Report Share Posted December 16, 2016 Silicone? I used resin anchors as suggested Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grrclark Posted December 16, 2016 Report Share Posted December 16, 2016 Either cut out the plasterboard to the same dimension as the cabinet and sit that in the rebate and fasten to the blocks using appropriate thermalite fittings or resin type fittings; or if you don't want to be quite so disruptive then cut out a couple of slots from the plaster board and insert timber spacers slightly proud of the plasterboard that you can put your fasteners through, the cabinet is compressed against those and doesn't collapse the plaster board. Lots of people go overboard in securing a cabinet, remember you only need to take reasonable precaution to protect your guns. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TaxiDriver Posted December 16, 2016 Report Share Posted December 16, 2016 To the OP. We share the same force area, possibly same FEO . My house is also dry lined, When I applied for first grant they insisted I cut out a section of drywall to enable the cabinet to be mounted right back to the block work. Their reasoning being that against the plaster board would allow a crowbar or other form of lever to be punched through the board and behind the cabinet. Tricky for me as I'm in a privately rented house, so had to get landlords permission and lodge a £200 deposit against satisfactorily reinstating the wall if/when we leave. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDAV Posted December 16, 2016 Report Share Posted December 16, 2016 (edited) Wow some really complex issues to a simple problem there! There are special Fixings for this type of construction that have a steel spacer that sits in the block and flush with the board with a tapped hole that you bolt into. This stops the crushing of the board I to the void..... http://buyrigifixonline.co.uk/shop/rigifix-drywall-fixings/ There are many other solutions also... Edited December 16, 2016 by HDAV Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quentyn Posted December 16, 2016 Report Share Posted December 16, 2016 Wow some really complex issues to a simple problem there! There are special Fixings for this type of construction that have a steel spacer that sits in the block and flush with the board with a tapped hole that you bolt into. This stops the crushing of the board I to the void..... http://buyrigifixonline.co.uk/shop/rigifix-drywall-fixings/ There are many other solutions also... +1 the m8's are perfect Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dougy Posted December 16, 2016 Report Share Posted December 16, 2016 Silicone? I used resin anchors as suggested I wouldn't discount silicone completely. You would struggle to shift it off the wall if you stuck it on with Sikaflex. But before anyone asks, no I haven't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rst1990 Posted December 16, 2016 Report Share Posted December 16, 2016 Wow some really complex issues to a simple problem there! There are special Fixings for this type of construction that have a steel spacer that sits in the block and flush with the board with a tapped hole that you bolt into. This stops the crushing of the board I to the void..... http://buyrigifixonline.co.uk/shop/rigifix-drywall-fixings/ There are many other solutions also... Are these suitable for a safe? Nylon plug? That would pull out pretty easy in a celcon block I would have thought Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDAV Posted December 16, 2016 Report Share Posted December 16, 2016 A its not a "safe" it's a gun cabinet and B 280kg rating....... What rating is suitable for a gun cabinet? You can use resin instead of the plug if more suitable for the substrate but properly fitted the nylon plugs are pretty solid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rst1990 Posted December 16, 2016 Report Share Posted December 16, 2016 (edited) A its not a "safe" it's a gun cabinet and B 280kg rating....... What rating is suitable for a gun cabinet? You can use resin instead of the plug if more suitable for the substrate but properly fitted the nylon plugs are pretty solid. A, whats the difference between a gun cabinet and gun safe then? Cabinet is usually made of a wooden design in my book and a gun safe is usually made of steel and appropriate style locks to stop unauthorised access.B, 280kg is the suspended weight it can hold not the force it takes to pull it out of the wall. Corr you say one thing ay... lol Edited December 16, 2016 by Rst1990 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDAV Posted December 16, 2016 Report Share Posted December 16, 2016 (edited) Difference between a cabinet and a safe about 200kg and £500 by my reckoning Home office guidance states securely fixed to fabric of the building IMO rigifix would cover that as long as the the block work is suitable (perhaps questionable) rigifix aren't the cheapo plastic plugs that come free with stuff but are decent quality. I've got some here somewhere. Only slight downside is I couldn't see (using my phone) a data sheet backing up the 280kg rating claim (would be nice to see) Edited December 16, 2016 by HDAV Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rst1990 Posted December 16, 2016 Report Share Posted December 16, 2016 Difference between a cabinet and a safe about 200kg and £500 by my reckoning Home office guidance states securely fixed to fabric of the building IMO rigifix would cover that as long as the the block work is suitable (perhaps questionable) rigifix aren't the cheapo plastic plugs that come free with stuff but are decent quality. I've got some here somewhere. Only slight downside is I couldn't see (using my phone) a data sheet backing up the 280kg rating claim (would be nice to see) Brattonsound gun safes aren't that expensive, check them out www.brattonsoundGUNSAFE.com Rigifix is a good fixing have used them for about a year and not had a problem with them with the right usage. I recently had a site demo that used loads of these fixings and I was able to pull them out the wall with me claw hammer, that's how I know about there weakness. Only trying to help ;-) Atb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDAV Posted December 16, 2016 Report Share Posted December 16, 2016 Are Bratton sound rating them now? If it doesn't have a rating then it's just a box http://www.burtonsafes.co.uk/online/faqs Plenty of rated gun safes around after all if you have several £20k+ guns you need it! http://www.burtonsafes.co.uk/online/warden Not as heavy as I thought mind... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ollieollie Posted December 17, 2016 Report Share Posted December 17, 2016 I wouldn't discount silicone completely. You would struggle to shift it off the wall if you stuck it on with Sikaflex. But before anyone asks, no I haven't. It has many excellent uses doug but can you imagine the officers face if he came across this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Me matt Posted December 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2016 Thanks for all your advice 👍 It's got 10 years NHBC guarantee so I don't suppose I can do anything drastic 😕 Might have to be a loft installation by the sound of it. Taxi driver- possibly mate, there's so few of them 😂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrg4ull Posted August 20, 2019 Report Share Posted August 20, 2019 On 16/12/2016 at 18:56, Chris Bb said: I sincerely hope they don't build houses like this in Burnley, Dave would have a field day, and not just with the doors! Dave ? My FEO was Nigel !!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TIGHTCHOKE Posted August 20, 2019 Report Share Posted August 20, 2019 A LOT may have CHANGED since 2016! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunman Posted August 21, 2019 Report Share Posted August 21, 2019 Bolted mine to the floor and to one of the wall studding uprights . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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