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Garage Roof Leaks. Corrugated Asbestos.


Robertt
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First, asbestos roof material is very brittle.  DON'T walk or crawl on it without boards (long enough that they overlap whatever supports the asbestos) that would support you if it suddenly cracked.  When it breaks, it breaks suddenly and with no warning, so don't take any chances.

Often the fixings originally had rubber/plastic 'spats' that eventually perish.  One type were known as 'Dowty spats'.  https://www.stowag.com/dowty-spats-black-m8-roofing-accessory-200418.html

These went under the heads of galvanised roofing nails.  https://www.stowag.com/galvanised-springhead-nails.html

To replace these, the nails need to come out - and that is where it gets difficult, as it is hard to pull them out without cracking the asbestos.

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You might find the head has either popped out or pulled through. Either way just get a scaf board down and slap a load of silicone in the hole and hit the nail home.

The nails are gonna be what John above says. Chuck a bucket of water up there now to see which ones are leaking as it might not be obvious 

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If you need to get the nails out. Then don' use a crow bar, you'l only do more damage. Usually if nailed on the ridges you can get a pair of mole grips on them and they should twist out. Bitumen needs reinforcing to make a proper roof repair as it gets hot and melts away from the hole. Gutter mastic or the new polymer adhesive sealant would be a better bet. Needs to be clean tho.

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Go to Screwfix and buy some new hook bolts with crown washers to suit the corrugated/sinusoidal profile.

Put a couple of scaffold boards across the purlins and you should be safe to walk on.

And….. your not going to contract asbestosis from an intact chrysotile asbestos sheet?

Edited by KB1
adding info
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22 hours ago, Robertt said:

The roof mainly leaks where it is bolted to the frame.

Any ideas on the best fix as running out of buckets.

The concerns I have are, asbetos and how not to fall through the roof.

Not DIY minded hence the request for ideas.

Ta.

 

hello, how many sheets do you have on the roof ? is it an apex double sided.

Edited by oldypigeonpopper
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23 hours ago, JohnfromUK said:

First, asbestos roof material is very brittle.  DON'T walk or crawl on it without boards (long enough that they overlap whatever supports the asbestos) that would support you if it suddenly cracked.  When it breaks, it breaks suddenly and with no warning, so don't take any chances.

Often the fixings originally had rubber/plastic 'spats' that eventually perish.  One type were known as 'Dowty spats'.  https://www.stowag.com/dowty-spats-black-m8-roofing-accessory-200418.html

These went under the heads of galvanised roofing nails.  https://www.stowag.com/galvanised-springhead-nails.html

To replace these, the nails need to come out - and that is where it gets difficult, as it is hard to pull them out without cracking the asbestos.

This?

Be safe,make sure you have rails and harness in case you fall off crawling boards.

You can also buy an asbestos roof sealer,but it is the fixing caps perished from you description.

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On 28/05/2018 at 10:21, Robertt said:

Flat roof with gutter at rear end. Think 25 panels.

hello, ah quite a number, old original cap fixings and the rubber seals, i would go with what Ricko said about flashband, if you do not want the expense of the steel sheets, but as other PW members mention safety first, crawler boards etc and a helping hand would also be ideal, 25 panels is quite a lot of fixings, any way good luck. 

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3 hours ago, Robertt said:

Will have a do with flashband.

Very grateful for the input.

Thanks

Be quicker to replace fixings and better or use some roof sealant like acryflex or roof and gutter sealant, much better than trying to get flash band to stick and the last thing you want to do is scrape asbestos clean,flash band will be hard to stick even if you heat it because of what you are trying to stick to.

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Put ladder on roof, same way as sheets, cover at least 3 bolts, put plank on ladder this spreads your weight. use  Acrypol+ or similar and paint over the area. do not brush out to much, let the fibres in it do their job ( like paintable fibreglass) jobs a goodun, and a bit flexible to.

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  • 4 years later...

Is it leaking mainly along the overlap joint.?

This was my case for years on my shabby old Big6 profile cement/asbestos? roof. Huge amounts of rain dripping into the garage along the overlap joint at the mid span across the roof.  Drops forming on the uphill edge of the under lying sheet. The uphill sheets largely dry (except for condensation). How is the water running uphill.??? 

Aaaaahh, my roof has sagged at the overlap enough to let rain run back up under the overlap.

Cut the J bolts holding the roof to the midway support beam and hammer timber batten(s) shims (25mm in my case) between beam and roof sheet to restore the slope. Also lift the top lying sheet at the overlap and squirt plenty mastic/sealant into the valleys and let the weight of the top sheet squish it into place. This cured all the drips except in 2 place where the underneath sheet was also cracked at the overlap but secondary gunk/sealant cured that.

It took me years to figure it out and ££££s wasted on useless gunk/paint/sealants.

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