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Planing the bottom of a bedroom door.


harrycatcat1
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I got the job of taking some off the bottom of a a door at my lads house as he's had a new carpet and the carpet fitter wanted 15 quid per door.

The door is one of those eggbox type doors not solid wood. Well i took it off and at either end(on the bottom)  there is what looks like staples presumably to hold the door together. Do i pull them out or punch them in as i dont want to wreck the planer.

#advicerequiredplease

Edited by harrycatcat1
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Most eggbox doors are made with 20mm softwood battens round the outside. If you'e got to take a lot off then its better to cut the bottom off and push the filling back and then refit the batten in the bottom just using plenty of glue and some clamps. 

As the door has already been fitted you might not know how much batten is left. If you drill a small hole through the batten you'll see how much meat you have left. 

As for the staples there only used for when it's being assmbled as the glue is doing all the work. I've ruined many a set of blades finding them embeddd in doors.

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17 minutes ago, haynes said:

Most eggbox doors are made with 20mm softwood battens round the outside. If you'e got to take a lot off then its better to cut the bottom off and push the filling back and then refit the batten in the bottom just using plenty of glue and some clamps. 

As the door has already been fitted you might not know how much batten is left. If you drill a small hole through the batten you'll see how much meat you have left. 

As for the staples there only used for when it's being assmbled as the glue is doing all the work. I've ruined many a set of blades finding them embeddd in doors.

Mine was 6 panel cheapie and if I remember rightly it had a 6 mm batten at the bottom , as my new underlay and carpet was thicker than the batten I got a kitchen supplier I know to cut the bottom off and then I reused the batten in the hollow bottom although the glue they used was hard to remove from the wood .

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Usually your allowed to cut off 6mm from all sides (from new). That then leaves 14mm on the battens to hold the door together. If I have to cut the bottom rail off I'll plane the hardboard off both sides with the power plane. Much quicker. 

What your allowed to do and what you'e got to do are two very different things.

Edited by haynes
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20 minutes ago, Remimax said:

i use a clamped straight edge  and a router cos i can't get on with me electric planer .

end up making a mess with it.

beat me to it, makes a mess with the dust but then you don't get the bad bow when the planner plows in, do it outside, and router bits are a lot cheaper than planner blades

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1 hour ago, Remimax said:

i use a clamped straight edge  and a router cos i can't get on with me electric planer .

end up making a mess with it.

I had the same problem with an old power planer. Replaced it with a Makita cordless planer and what a difference. It will shave anything from a slither up to 2mm with ease. Very accurate machine and mirror finish. 

 

Apologies for hijacking the post. 

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31 minutes ago, harrycatcat1 said:

Gosh i didn't realise there would have been so many options :lol:

You should go for the draft excludes option, quick and easy, and it's the only green option that's been suggested.

 

We need to save the planet,and by fitting a draft excluder you will save a huge amount of money on your heating bills. 

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