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Stripped Sump Plug Thread


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Looking for some advice from the mechanically minded members.

I've managed to strip/damage the sump plug thread on my Kawasaki klf300 quad. Worse, I've attempted to repair it by  cutting a slightly larger new thread, which hasn't gone to plan. New plug now won't even hold in the threads...

Looking for advice, and perhaps help/recommendations in the south manchester area, on how to extract myself from the mess without further catastrophic damage.

Has anyone any good experiences with the Time-Sert kit, or would a more straightforward helicoil insert be suitable, as well as a heck of a lot cheaper? 

Any other suggestions? Very annoyed at myself!

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Did the same on a car years ago.  I drilled out to solid metal, tapped a new thread, M10 if I recall, and then used a cut down bolt with a rubber washer.

Sold the car about 3 yrs later, 30k odd miles and about 3 or 4 oil changes later.  All good.

Might work for you?

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49 minutes ago, enfieldspares said:

You've had to drain the sump anyway, so, yes, if it's easy drop on it and work on it off the vehicle. Drilling and tapping while still in the vehicle seems OK...BUT WHERE HAS THE SWARF GONE?

Agreed, I took my sump off, was quite easy and a new gasket was a lot cheaper than a new sump

 

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Cannot understand why people remove sump plugs anymore when you can buy a suction pump that takes the old oil out via the dipstick tube for under a tenner? As for the OP's predicament I would look for a new/ used sump.There's a KLF Breaking on the bay of plenty.

Edited by bruno22rf
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An old tip when inserting bolts or plugs.

Hold it to the hole it's to be screwed in to and by hand turn it backwards. Left to right (lefty losey) instead of right to left (rights tightly).

It wil after a half turn suddenly "drop" as it might feel and that tells you by feel the leed on the bolt thread has aligned with the leed on the hole's thread.

Now gently screw in as normal all the way.

 

 

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10 hours ago, ph5172 said:

I have seen emergency jobs done with JB steel weld putty and epoxy. 
Never to be removed but work. 
 

of its alloy and soft would a new larger bolt not suffice as it’s bedding itself in as inserted. 
 

or….

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-cht800-drain-plug-thread-repair-kit/

I used a similar one of these on a LR Discovery 2 alloy sump. They work perfectly if installed correctly. I hand drilled the hole from underneath with a 20mm drill held in mole grips and moved slowly to make sure I removed the swarf.

I bought the car just after it's first MOT at 3 years when I presume the bodigt and scarper merchant stripped the thread, sold it 10 years later to a dealer with no one the wiser and no leaks.

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1 hour ago, enfieldspares said:

An old tip when inserting bolts or plugs.

Hold it to the hole it's to be screwed in to and by hand turn it backwards. Left to right (lefty losey) instead of right to left (rights tightly).

It wil after a half turn suddenly "drop" as it might feel and that tells you by feel the leed on the bolt thread has aligned with the leed on the hole's thread.

Now gently screw in as normal all the way.

 

 

I always do this 👍 avoids Cross threading"

How about boss white tape in the short term 🤔 

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You can also get bottom lead taps for helicoils which start off as the previous thread before cutting the thread for the coil. Used to make sure the tap goes into the sump square and central to the old thread. Have used them a couple of times to save sumps. 

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On 21/11/2022 at 22:12, Gordon R said:

I remember as a kid mid 60's having a Villiers 197cc that I used to take on the local fields. I had to have that head helicoiled as I was riding it the spark plug shot out, ripped my jeans. It cost 10 shillings then.

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