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seized choke


hedgerow
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Best advice I got from this forum was soak it in oil or diesel etc then the best bit, put your choke key upside down in a good solid vice. Place the barrel down over the choke key and then pushing down on the choke key turn the barrel, you get way more leverage like this. Worked for me.

I watched a guy the other day trying to loosen an allen screw, he did the same thing. Lock the allen key in his vice and offered the part upto it and it worked ,i was amazed, hey never to old to learn something new lol.

Edited by johnphilip
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Best advice I got from this forum was soak it in oil or diesel etc then the best bit, put your choke key upside down in a good solid vice. Place the barrel down over the choke key and then pushing down on the choke key turn the barrel, you get way more leverage like this. Worked for me.

Might end up with a Damascus twist to both barrels if stuck fast.

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I appreciate that there are "stuck choke" tools for getting them out, but I would be genuinely interested in other methods for extraction. Any gunsmiths on here willing to part with trade secrets?
:yes:
Easy enough to get a grip of an extended choke, but flush chokes, without lugs (Teague types) would be harder.

I have extracted more needle roller bearings from motocross bike suspensions than you can point a stick at.

I originally tried:-

Pressing them out - with or without heat from a blowlamp - usually collapsed the shell.

Chiselling them - this invariably split the roller cage (shell) and made them a pig to get the rest out.

Running a saw blade through - trying to cut the cage. Difficult as the metal is quite hard.

I then had the brain wave of putting a blob of weld - via a MIG - onto the thin shell wall. The heat tended to ease the fit. I then knocked the shell out with a drift. From spending hours on that job, I can get one out in about a minute.

I did wonder if something similar was used by gunsmiths. I am aware that any massive amount of heat might melt the barrel solder, but I have used a heat sink, in the past, to absorb the heat.

Is it possible to weld a couple of small blobs, so that a flat piece of metal could bear upon them and turn, if the stuck tool didn't grip?

If that would trash the barrels - please say so.

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First port of call soak in deseil for a few day then use a high quality choke key.

 

If this fails freeze the barrels try again noramally works.

 

Failing that suck choke tool but will destroy the choke tube.

 

If it's a Teague type friction key I rough up the surface and use powdered rosin to add the grip.

 

If none of these work machine it out on the lathe last course of action and I use Teague choke when this must be done.

Edited by welshwarrior
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