Do you change your own oil?

[harrycatcat1]

The reason that I ask is that I've heard good and bad stories about the oil removal pumps that suck the oil out. Do you use one?

I was going to change the oil and filter between services but am I better just taking it to my man and letting him do it?

In the past I've changed a clutch on a Hillman Minx on the drive but it was over 45 years ago.

What's your opinion 🤔 

[Gordon R]

I have an air powered oil remover and use it on quite a few friends' and relatives' cars. No messing under the car -Two minutes or so under the bonnet - job done.

I've removed the sump plug a couple of times, on different cars, to check it is getting all the oil out and it does. Very, very little has ever come out of the sump plug.

Don't use it on our cars as they need service stamps.

[Centrepin]

Not done much on vehicles since my LR Disco went. Couldn't do much on the Range Rover, too complicated. Before that I had a hoist in the garage, still have far too many tools, did everything myself.

I don't like the sucky pumps they don't get the muck out and you also need to change the filter.

I don't do anything now as my current vehicle is on lease and it gets done annually on contract and if it doesn't that's their problem at lease end.

It used to be oil and filter every 3000 miles or 3 months, now I think its 12000 miles or 12 months.

[TOPGUN749]

I have always changed oil and filers,but I have had cars with easy to reach filters.Some these days are fitted deliberately in awkward places,that are time consuming so that the dealers are left to make money.

[mossy835]

all ways take it to my garage,days i get under cars are gone.

[Cannon]

Some cars now come without sump bungs so you've no choice other than to suck the oil out from either the dipstick hole or a dedicated extraction point. If you change your oil frequently enough you shouldn't have to worry about build up of contaminants that would necessitate draining from the sump.

The important thing to remember is to get the oil up to temperature before draining or sucking it out. Providing the oil is changed before or on schedule (either on time or mileage), and is not heavily contaminated with fuel, the warm oil should keep the majority of the contaminants in suspension. So sucking the oil out should be sufficient without having to worry about leaving unwanted contaminants behind.

That being said, I always drain from the sump on cars that I've never worked on before, but if I know a vehicles history and have previously serviced it, I will sometimes choose to suck the oil out depending on where the filter is. If the filter requires access from underneath, I will drain from the sump bung. If the filter can be accessed from the top, I will suck the oil out every odd numbered service and drain from the sump bung on the even numbered services. Regardless of what the science says, I still believe it's a good idea to drain from the sump now and again to make sure there are no chunks of swarf, belt, timing chain tensioner etc hiding in it.

Out of curiosity I had two oil samples from my own car tested after it was serviced twice using the sump bung method and twice using the suction method. Both results were virtually identical with no discernible difference in the condition of the oil. I would recommend a magnetic sump plug if you're worried about contaminants. Been using them for years and they can give you a pretty good idea of an engines health at a glance.

Edited September 30, 2023 by Cannon

[amateur]

Not since I went electric.

[Rupert]

I use an up stairs only method to change the oil on my 2018 Jag, capacity is 7.25l and it will pull out 7l. I put 7l back in and do it every 6k miles which is half the dealer schedule. Takes 10 mins stood up.

 

Edit, the engine is designed for this method with a tube from the filler going downstairs.

Edited September 30, 2023 by Rupert

[miki]

1 hour ago, Cannon said:

Some cars now come without sump bungs so you've no choice other than to suck the oil out from either the dipstick hole or a dedicated extraction point. If you change your oil frequently enough you shouldn't have to worry about build up of contaminants that would necessitate draining from the sump.

The important thing to remember is to get the oil up to temperature before draining or sucking it out. Providing the oil is changed before or on schedule (either on time or mileage), and is not heavily contaminated with fuel, the warm oil should keep the majority of the contaminants in suspension. So sucking the oil out should be sufficient without having to worry about leaving unwanted contaminants behind.

 

 

I always change my oil myself and use a manual vacuum 'sucker' through the dipstick tube.
I have a Defender, Audi TT and a Toyota.

I do like to remove the sump plug on occasion (every 2nd or 3rd change) but to be honest I think that just me being oldfashioned/stuck in my ways.

Good advice above from @Cannon

I'm not sure wht you would want to change oil 'between services', these days and with modern oils I wouldn't see any advantage in doing so.
If you are racing the car maybe ?
I'd be much more inclined to change the differential and gearbox oils more frequently to be fair.
 

[Acerforestry]

As with Gordon above, I usually change all our oils (3 Japanese 4x4's)and now use a mate's air suction pump, works like a dream and so much easier and quicker. Won't be going back to faffing round with a wrench underneath

[Weihrauch17]

10 hours ago, harrycatcat1 said:

The reason that I ask is that I've heard good and bad stories about the oil removal pumps that suck the oil out. Do you use one?

I was going to change the oil and filter between services but am I better just taking it to my man and letting him do it?

In the past I've changed a clutch on a Hillman Minx on the drive but it was over 45 years ago.

What's your opinion 🤔 

Undo your sump plug!

4 hours ago, amateur said:

Not since I went electric.

Yawn.

[Gordon R]

Some years ago, my youngest had an MG ZS, 2.5l petrol. Decided to change the oil / filter when he got it. Up on the ramps, he got under and said he couldn't find the sump plug. After casting doubts on the size of his brain, I said he should leave the job to a professional. I got under and discovered the engine didn't have a drain plug. First car I had come across without one. I don't know how common this is.

[amateur]

18 minutes ago, Gordon R said:

Some years ago, my youngest had an MG ZS, 2.5l petrol. Decided to change the oil / filter when he got it. Up on the ramps, he got under and said he couldn't find the sump plug. After casting doubts on the size of his brain, I said he should leave the job to a professional. I got under and discovered the engine didn't have a drain plug. First car I had come across without one. I don't know how common this is.

Did you remove the sump and weld on a boss?

[Gordon R]

No I didn't. I have to say the 2.5L V6 was a smooth, high revving engine. Way better than the V6 Mondeo on his previous car.

[harrycatcat1]

9 hours ago, Weihrauch17 said:

Undo your sump plug!

Yawn.

I would, but it's not as simple as that it has a sump cover that looks like it weighs 1cwt and has a dozen bolts in. It would be hard enough on a lift but laid on my back on the drive it wouldn't be easy.

19 hours ago, mossy835 said:

all ways take it to my garage,days i get under cars are gone.

I think I agree 👍 

Thanks for everyone's replies 👍👍

Edited October 1, 2023 by harrycatcat1

[marsh man]

On 30/09/2023 at 14:17, mossy835 said:

all ways take it to my garage,days i get under cars are gone.

Couldn't agree with you more mossey , I have always said I wouldn't pay someone to do something I could do myself , changing my oil and filter is something I am very happy to pay for , well maybe not very happy but you know what I mean 

[Pops_Hants]

Always from the sump from me, but, tbh my mate is a mechanic and either lets me use the ramps or he does it for me. It's more faff than a sucker but I am just stuck in my ways.

I have a habit of over thinking, and having run all sorts of cars and motorbikes I now do things "my" way as it stops me over thinking. This includes things like running V Power in my more powerful vehicles, or over servicing them etc. I have a Honda motorbike that just does loads of miles, and it gets an oil service every 4k, I have a race bike that has an oil change every 1k, and then I have my XC90 which I would run on chip fat oil if I could. End of the day, I do things my way, it stops me over thinking and either I'll never have a problem because I am overly cautious, or it'll be my fault it blew up, either way, I can't blame someone else 😂

[London Best]

I always did my own repairs and servicing, partly to save money and partly because if things weren’t right it was my own fault. 
It really upsets me now that I can’t crawl under vehicles and pull and tug stuff about, so that I have to trust someone else to look after my vehicle.  And it costs a fortune.

[RyanMc]

I bored a hole in the under pan of the L200, I just loosen the bung, slide the repurposed hypochlorite drum underneath and let it drain. The vacuum pump doesn't work on the l200, not low spot under the dipstick to pick oil up from, took around 200ml out when I tried it. But I do use the pump on other cars and it gets all out. The contaminants should be suspended in the oil and in the filter. Mercs and similar can only be done this way on the more modern versions anyway. 

Regular oil changes is the key!

[DUNKS]

My last two cars had the under engine cover which needed to be removed to get at the oil filter, so once you have got this off you might as well drain the oil by removing the sump plug. If you have a boat with an inboard engine YOU HAVE TO use the suction method to remove oil.

[NoBodyImportant]

I let the dealership change the toyota.  I got the toyota lifetime drive train warranty but I have to have records of service so I let the dealership keep up with it.  But all the other vehicles get it changed at Walmart for $25.  It literally cost $19.99 to buy the stuff to do it myself.  

[DUNKS]

I am always amazed at the price of oil when we go to Canada, compared to ours over here. And a lot of it is the same oil in similar cans. Only difference is the spec on the reverse of the can is in French.

OK Mr Nobody what would the cost be to you for 5 ltrs or one gallon of fully synthetic car oil please.

[Westward]

On 01/10/2023 at 09:30, Gordon R said:

No I didn't. I have to say the 2.5L V6 was a smooth, high revving engine. Way better than the V6 Mondeo on his previous car.

Would that be the Honda engine on the ZS. The Mondeo V6 was a perfect example of Ford managing to ruin the brilliant and super silky Mazda V6 engine which, still to this day, is the nicest engine I've ever had.

[Gordon R]

It was the Honda. Quick revving engine, compared to the sluggish V6 in the Mondeo. I will probably take stick for saying the MG ZS was a decent car to drive.

One of my mates has a Skoda Superb, but also has a ZT estate - diesel - 20 years old and lasting really well.

 

[mr smith]

Did my daughter's car today using the wee electric pump I bought to do the rear differential on my crv,piece of pee as they say should have got one years ago.