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Rat Problem!!! .22 Birdshot inside sheds? Help! Advice


Marksman1997
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I've been told this works. Nearly fill a drum with bran of some other light material, crushed barley perhaps, and get the rats feeding on the contents. After a while, empty the drum and part fill with water. Sprinkle some of the stuff they have been feeding on on top of the water. The first one caught makes a noise/noises that attract others. Make sure there is easy access to the drum.

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Use a .25 cal air rifle there is no better cal for indoor ratting its like hitting them with a brick.for a good night site Try and get a second hand ns50 or better still the ns200 I actually prefer the ns200 on my foxing .17 hmr than using my drone pro as you can spot with it easily also I find peanut butter thinned down with used veg oil to be a good attractant. Rats can't get enough of it bait for 3 or 4 nights then just sit back and wait for a good bag or go to the nearest cat home buy a pair of cats they will clear the lot in a week

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Wouldn't steel BB's be really bad for ricochet?

:yes: Just a bit. My son and his friends all had those gas powered BB guns when they were younger (still have them actually) so I brought them all wraparound orange glasses from work which came with the Paslode guns. They ran around outside happily shooting each other on many occasion, and apart from tiny, bright pink welts on their faces were fine, but to fire any steel shot inside a building without eye protection may not be wise.

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Glue Traps Anyone?

Sticky boards are very effective, however you need a fairly strong stomach - you have to check the boards in max of 12 hours, I.e put down last thing and check in morning - take a priest or I used to use a hammer handle, and bash away until all dead.

This is pretty grim job but very effective for ridding big numbers quick, horrible seen though - rats half alive with chewed off legs where they've tried to escape.

We once (I used to be a pest controller) sticky boarded a whole car garage and had over 100 to kill upon our arrival...

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I owned a .22 Anchutz garden gun for some time and the word useless comes to mind. On one occasion a jackdaw sat while I fired 3 shots at about 20 feet eventually getting tired of all the noise and flew away. This was a proper smooth bore gun and since a rifle scatters the shot even further you would need to be mighty close to a rat .

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  • 11 months later...

Before we gave up the cows I used to use these .22 shot shells a lot in the calf pens - they were great at 3 -4 yards for knocking rats off as they ran along beams and up the wire netting. Now I see you live in NI. I think you can still hold pistols over there. I had a .357 revolver conditioned for use with shot for rat control - excellent sport! I loaded the shells myself with No 9 so I suppose they were similar to a light loaded 9mm garden gun. Again - very effective at relatively close range at running rats. A word of caution - always wear eye protection as they will ping back at you and try not to hit light bulbs for obvious reasons!

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hello, the farm i shoot on was like that when i first started there 100s,my .22 air rifle and red torch then with n/v and constant shooting they number in 10s around the farm now, i put the odd poison down in the grain dryer tunnel and with doors shut to stop any getting out leave for a few days and then pick up dead ones. my rifle is a multi high shot count FX 160 per fill with a MK1 photon n/v. i got rid of all the rubbish around the farm they hid cut the old grass and stingers then baited with old feed at different places, there is also have a good farm cat/ owls take a few. i have shot many in daytime but after dark is best, so if you do go air rifle a multi shot .22 and can get a s/h photon and air cylinder, look at making a diy n.v system look on PW airgun thread. once you get set up you will soon get numbers down. best of luck. shame you so far i have just the set up you need.

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I shoot hundreds a year. Poison will. Of work as there is to much feed around they they don't need the bait even bait will not work.

 

I started with red led on the cz and remington cbee bullets. They run at 28ftlb but be a little careful as you do get bound so make sure there is nothing behind pof value.

After a while I switched to night vision as they ran from the red light. Then they sat in the stalls with the cattle so I switched to 177 air and night vision.

 

Before I shoot on a night I have a walk around, open all! The doors I need to and check where all the calves are. For so!e reason I get more in with them that in with cows. Once I know where's what I get on with it.

Now I do two rounds of the buildings and then call it a night as the rats very quickly learnt.

 

I was shooting 80-90 an evening and that was every 3 days. Not I do once a week for a out 30. If I shoot twice a week then its only 10 a time so oncema week works better.

 

One thing about. Night vision is you very quickly learn where they best and their favourite runs. After a few trips you notice they bloom else where. Rat shooting is one of the best things there is. After drinking tea that is.

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Nearly a year old this thread, but I can be more than confident no rat/mouse INFESTATION has been SOLVED by shooting alone, they will be breeding quicker than you can shoot them on the whole.

You will need a planned approach almost certainly involving several rat removal/proofing techniques!

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Not yet required night vision,

 

Set up a lit area near to where they normally feed and somewhere you can get rested up and settled for shooting (even make a little hide).

 

Bait the area with mashed up cat food and veg oil (makes them "lap" the food and not pick and run). Do this for a couple of nights and on the third or fourth night pick em off with air rifle.

 

Depends on how close you are and how well hidden you are you dont even need scope nevermind hundreds (even thousands) of pounds worth of equipment!!

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