henrymayger Posted December 30, 2016 Report Share Posted December 30, 2016 hello all, i have a question, my FAO coming over in a few days and live in a new house and the walls are mostly plaster board, i were to use a corner wall (2 external walls) to install it and drill all the way to the outside brick and use expanding wall plugs would this work?? Any tips would be amazing thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
das Posted December 30, 2016 Report Share Posted December 30, 2016 (edited) You need to install the cabinet to a solid wall, usually these are external walls. Your new house will almost certainly be external brick,cavity with a breezeblock inner. You can drill, plug and attach the cabinet to the breezeblock inner without needing to go through to the outer brick. You will know when you hit something solid after drilling through the plaster. Make sure your plugs or expansion bolts are well secure as your FEO will give the cabinet a good tug. Hope this helps. Edited December 30, 2016 by das Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yellow Bear Posted December 30, 2016 Report Share Posted December 30, 2016 if fixing to block use chemical anchors = in fact use anyway, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brodie Posted December 30, 2016 Report Share Posted December 30, 2016 Do you know the construction of your house? If solid behind plaster, easy to fix with resin anchors and studding - expanding fixings don't suit lightweight building blocks. If timber framed, you may be able to fix into an upright frame timber behind the plaster board. Alternatively can you lay the cabinet down and fix to floor joists? Good luck whatever you decide, there are many threads about fixing cabinets in problem situations. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bullet1747 Posted December 30, 2016 Report Share Posted December 30, 2016 The walls will be dot and dab , even if it was studd walls you could fix to the timber behind Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Walker570 Posted December 30, 2016 Report Share Posted December 30, 2016 Glad my place is 400yrs old Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scully Posted December 30, 2016 Report Share Posted December 30, 2016 Studs will be either 400 or 600 centres. I have 3 cabinets, and as soon as I move into new flat I'll be fixing horizontal battens on whatever centres the studs are at and then fixing cabinets through those and into studs. As far as I'm aware there are no noggins to fix anything to. All will be covered by a false wardrobe or similar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shepe Posted December 30, 2016 Report Share Posted December 30, 2016 I had the same problem, I live in a half timber frame new build house and couldn't find a suitable solid wall to attach the cabinet to. So I laid it down and used coach bolts to secure it to all the joists it crossed. FEO was happy with this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spower Posted December 31, 2016 Report Share Posted December 31, 2016 Same problem here. I ended up drilling though the plasterboard, through cavity and thermalite blocks and into outside brick. Used 14mm threaded bar and epoxy resin to secure them into the wall then bolted the cabinet on. Tried my damndest to get it to budge once it had all set but isn't budging an inch and Feo was plenty happy with it. Had read about the expanding bolts either not reaching through the cavity or busting the thermalite blocks that's why I went down the resin route Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Westley Posted December 31, 2016 Report Share Posted December 31, 2016 Was it new Glad my place is 400yrs old when you moved in then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Archie-fox Posted January 1, 2017 Report Share Posted January 1, 2017 Same problem here. I ended up drilling though the plasterboard, through cavity and thermalite blocks and into outside brick. Used 14mm threaded bar and epoxy resin to secure them into the wall then bolted the cabinet on. Tried my damndest to get it to budge once it had all set but isn't budging an inch and Feo was plenty happy with it. Had read about the expanding bolts either not reaching through the cavity or busting the thermalite blocks that's why I went down the resin route Did this yesterday big bolts and epoxy resin it's solid as a rock... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonker Posted January 1, 2017 Report Share Posted January 1, 2017 Same problem here. I ended up drilling though the plasterboard, through cavity and thermalite blocks and into outside brick. Used 14mm threaded bar and epoxy resin to secure them into the wall then bolted the cabinet on. Tried my damndest to get it to budge once it had all set but isn't budging an inch and Feo was plenty happy with it. Had read about the expanding bolts either not reaching through the cavity or busting the thermalite blocks that's why I went down the resin route Trouble with that is maybe you now have a thermal breech and or a conduit for water to travel along and make your wall damp as you have bridged the cavity. Just being super anal I hope it's okay because you don't want moisture getting to your cabinet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spower Posted January 2, 2017 Report Share Posted January 2, 2017 Trouble with that is maybe you now have a thermal breech and or a conduit for water to travel along and make your wall damp as you have bridged the cavity. Just being super anal I hope it's okay because you don't want moisture getting to your cabinet. No, you're right. I had read about being wary of that problem. I used plenty of resin to hopefully seal the thermalite blocks completely and then added some expanding foam around the threaded bar. All seems well a year and a half later, always have a few silicon sachets in the bottom of the cabinet just in case, not actually sure if they would help at all anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
team tractor Posted January 2, 2017 Report Share Posted January 2, 2017 I've just used resin with stud bar for the first time ever and wow. I can't believe how good it grips. Ash blocks that would normally break with a rawl bolt are now an amazing fixing. £8 for the resin £4 for 10 pieces of bar with nuts and washers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winnie&bezza Posted January 2, 2017 Report Share Posted January 2, 2017 I'm going to be doing this soon as I've just moved into a place with dot and dab. I'm gonna use resin and rod into block but do you bother with a packer between block and back of plasterboard? I know it means just cutting a couple of rectangular pieces of plasterboard out and sliding packer in but it's extra aggro! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TIGHTCHOKE Posted January 2, 2017 Report Share Posted January 2, 2017 I'm going to be doing this soon as I've just moved into a place with dot and dab. I'm gonna use resin and rod into block but do you bother with a packer between block and back of plasterboard? I know it means just cutting a couple of rectangular pieces of plasterboard out and sliding packer in but it's extra aggro! Let us know, which way you decide to go and some pictures would be useful too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winnie&bezza Posted January 2, 2017 Report Share Posted January 2, 2017 Let us know, which way you decide to go and some pictures would be useful too. Will do mate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonker Posted January 2, 2017 Report Share Posted January 2, 2017 (edited) You could put packers , but you could just as easily use a bit of pipe, measured from the wall to the back of the cabinet and slid over your bar. As long as it is bigger than the hole in the cabinet it will work, Soft copper water pipe or even the blue poly pipe won't compress length ways over that small distance. Edited January 2, 2017 by tonker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big bad lindz Posted January 2, 2017 Report Share Posted January 2, 2017 No need to lie it flat on the floor, just drill 4 or holes in the bottom of the safe and secure it to the floor as well as securing it onto the plaster board. there is no need for it to be secured to a solid wall just as long as the whole unit is secured. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kory1986 Posted January 3, 2017 Report Share Posted January 3, 2017 (edited) hello all, i have a question, my FAO coming over in a few days and live in a new house and the walls are mostly plaster board, i were to use a corner wall (2 external walls) to install it and drill all the way to the outside brick and use expanding wall plugs would this work?? Any tips would be amazing thank you I had the same problem m8 what I did was to put my cabinet in a upstairs built in wardrobe I got some 2 by 4 and a inch and a half thick plywood sheet I found where the wall stubs where in the wardrobe and screwed the 2 by 4 into them at the same hight the mounting holes on my cabinet was I then screwed the plywood board to the 2 by four kind of making a new wall if you want call it that I then mounted the cabinet to it using coach bolts and very big washers I also used some coach bolts on the floor this cabinet is in solid ando not going anywhere where the FAO was happy with it not a issuse Edited January 3, 2017 by kory1986 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.