grahamch Posted May 3, 2017 Report Share Posted May 3, 2017 Have recently moved into a place with all dry lined walls with no brick or block word to bolt the cabinet to other than in the loft which is a bit impractical. On top of that there are no concrete floors either. Can l anchor to a dry lined wall if so how or will l need to use the block work in the loft? TIA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDAV Posted May 3, 2017 Report Share Posted May 3, 2017 (edited) What's behind the drylining? This will become a bigger issue as construction methods change. You could pattress the wall with 18mm ply between the studs 3 ideally and fix to that but it's messy or unsightly I would use these http://buyrigifixonline.co.uk Edited May 3, 2017 by HDAV Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ollieollie Posted May 3, 2017 Report Share Posted May 3, 2017 resin anchors/threaded bar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grahamch Posted May 3, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2017 What's behind the drylining? This will become a bigger issue as construction methods change. You could pattress the wall with 18mm ply between the studs 3 ideally and fix to that but it's messy or unsightly I would use these http://buyrigifixonline.co.uk From what can see in loft am assuming block work, place was built in 80s l think Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vampire Posted May 3, 2017 Report Share Posted May 3, 2017 Stand the cabinet against the wall,draw round it then cut out this shape being careful of wiring,now bolt cabinet back to block work. Police only concerned that its not secure or could could get a pry bar behind the cabinet,fixing it like above negates both these issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quentyn Posted May 3, 2017 Report Share Posted May 3, 2017 Have recently moved into a place with all dry lined walls with no brick or block word to bolt the cabinet to other than in the loft which is a bit impractical. On top of that there are no concrete floors either. Can l anchor to a dry lined wall if so how or will l need to use the block work in the loft? TIA google rigfix m10's there must be blockwork somewhere behind the dry lined walls - they should work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iano Posted May 4, 2017 Report Share Posted May 4, 2017 Stand the cabinet against the wall,draw round it then cut out this shape being careful of wiring,now bolt cabinet back to block work. Police only concerned that its not secure or could could get a pry bar behind the cabinet,fixing it like above negates both these issues. This. The Infac dealer I buy from recommended this. You can then finish off the job with architrave so it doesn't look unsightly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Newbie to this Posted May 4, 2017 Report Share Posted May 4, 2017 Stand the cabinet against the wall,draw round it then cut out this shape being careful of wiring,now bolt cabinet back to block work. Police only concerned that its not secure or could could get a pry bar behind the cabinet,fixing it like above negates both these issues. This. The Infac dealer I buy from recommended this. You can then finish off the job with architrave so it doesn't look unsightly. Unless it's a rented property and you tenancy agreement doesn't allow it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twistedsanity Posted May 4, 2017 Report Share Posted May 4, 2017 My feo didn't ask.how my cabinet was fixed or what it was fixed to, it didn't wobble when he pulled and pushed it so it passed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rim Fire Posted May 4, 2017 Report Share Posted May 4, 2017 (edited) Dont go cutting out the shape of the cabnet and bolting it to outside wall as you will dissturbe the membrain stopping the damp comming in just ask your FAO and he will advise you what is best Edited May 5, 2017 by Rim Fire Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vampire Posted May 4, 2017 Report Share Posted May 4, 2017 (edited) Dont go cutting out the shape of the cabnet and bolting it to outside wall as you will dissturbe the membrain stopping the camp comming in just ask your FAO and he will advise you what is best If you are only taking the dry lining off,this will not have any damp issues,it would only be the case if it is timber framed,but as the op said its block work. Edited May 4, 2017 by vampire Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wilts#Dave Posted May 4, 2017 Report Share Posted May 4, 2017 Dont go cutting out the shape of the cabnet and bolting it to outside wall as you will dissturbe the membrain stopping the camp comming in just ask your FAO and he will advise you what is best Think he's asking on here what the fao might say based on people's experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rim Fire Posted May 5, 2017 Report Share Posted May 5, 2017 If you are only taking the dry lining off,this will not have any damp issues,it would only be the case if it is timber framed,but as the op said its block work. Not correct if you take off the drylined you will find a ply lined outerwall with a membrain on it to stop the damp you would have to cut this as well to fix to outer wall hence you will dissturb the membrain stopping the damp crossing what do you think they use to tie in the wall ties your dry linning is only an interier wall and as wilts Dave said ask the FAO and will save you cutting youe house to bits Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lloydi73 Posted May 5, 2017 Report Share Posted May 5, 2017 Not correct if you take off the drylined you will find a ply lined outerwall with a membrain on it to stop the damp you would have to cut this as well to fix to outer wall hence you will dissturb the membrain stopping the damp crossing what do you think they use to tie in the wall ties your dry linning is only an interier wall and as wilts Dave said ask the FAO and will save you cutting youe house to bits Utter cobblers!! It's an 80's house so highly unlikely to be timber framed construction!! It's simply a brick and block cavity wall dry lined out probably for level......The OP has already said there's a blockwork skin. You're quite safe to cut out the dryling and bolt back to the 100 or 140mm (dependant of wall makeup) blockwork internal wall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ph5172 Posted May 5, 2017 Report Share Posted May 5, 2017 I would try laying the safe on its back on the floor, drill some pilot holes and coach screw / bolt it down Put a batten above the skirting flush with the cabinet to make it slightly more difficult to get anything around the sides and to stop anything dropping down I would put money on it not budging - i have seen a few done in this manner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delwint Posted May 5, 2017 Report Share Posted May 5, 2017 +1 What lloydi73 said Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Katash Posted May 6, 2017 Report Share Posted May 6, 2017 Mine was the same so I made 2 brackets - cut 2 x lengths of steel flat bar the width of the cabinet and welded 2 x 10mm studs to each one to match the holes on the inside of the cabinet. I then cut the plasterboard and recessed the brackets so they could be coach bolted to the vertical studs inside the wall. Then hung the cabinet on the studs and nylock nutted the cab to the studs. I took photos and showed my FEO when he came to inspect - he expressed initial concerns until I climbed into the cabinet and tried to wrench it off the wall with no success. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rupert Posted May 6, 2017 Report Share Posted May 6, 2017 Dont go cutting out the shape of the cabnet and bolting it to outside wall as you will dissturbe the membrain stopping the damp comming in just ask your FAO and he will advise you what is best Rubbish Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vampire Posted May 6, 2017 Report Share Posted May 6, 2017 What's behind the drylining? This will become a bigger issue as construction methods change. You could pattress the wall with 18mm ply between the studs 3 ideally and fix to that but it's messy or unsightly I would use these http://buyrigifixonline.co.uk Question From what can see in loft am assuming block work, place was built in 80s l think Answer Stand the cabinet against the wall,draw round it then cut out this shape being careful of wiring,now bolt cabinet back to block work. Police only concerned that its not secure or could could get a pry bar behind the cabinet,fixing it like above negates both these issues. Solution If you are only taking the dry lining off,this will not have any damp issues,it would only be the case if it is timber framed,but as the op said its block work. Again Not correct if you take off the drylined you will find a ply lined outerwall with a membrain on it to stop the damp you would have to cut this as well to fix to outer wall hence you will dissturb the membrain stopping the damp crossing what do you think they use to tie in the wall ties your dry linning is only an interier wall and as wilts Dave said ask the FAO and will save you cutting youe house to bits Start again and see if you can spot it,we will wait Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
figgy Posted May 6, 2017 Report Share Posted May 6, 2017 I Don't bother cutting all the plaster off the walls mark the fixing holes on the plaster and cut 15mm holes measure the distance to the blockwork and cut some 15mm copper pipe to the lengths required to sit flush with the surface of wall. Drill the holes you need for your fixings I used m8 Rawl bolts in mine then put the bits of pipe over the fixings in the wall so they sit flush with the face of the plaster then fix your cabinet back to them. It should fix with no gaps and not ruin your wall. My Feo was happy both times I used this method. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kory1986 Posted May 6, 2017 Report Share Posted May 6, 2017 I had this issues all I did was put it in a built In cupboard upstairs i found the 3 2 by 4 behind the plaster board and screwed two 2 by 4 horizontal to wall in line with the holes on the cabient on the 2 by 4 behind the plaster board. I then got a inch and a half ply wood and screwed that on the horizontal 2 by 4 creating a new wall I then bolted the cabinet to that using coach screws the cabinet is in there nice and solid it's not going any were and police was happy with it. Didnt need to cut holes in the wall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TaxiDriver Posted May 7, 2017 Report Share Posted May 7, 2017 Stand the cabinet against the wall,draw round it then cut out this shape being careful of wiring,now bolt cabinet back to block work. Police only concerned that its not secure or could could get a pry bar behind the cabinet,fixing it like above negates both these issues. This is exactly what Essex made me do, Tricky as I had to get my land lady's permission and pay a deposit against reinstatement of the wall should we leave. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benkent Posted May 8, 2017 Report Share Posted May 8, 2017 I had the same problem at my house bolted safe to the floor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buze Posted May 8, 2017 Report Share Posted May 8, 2017 I wanted to install cabinet on the ground floor of our house, but the only practical position was on a internal wall. What I eventually did was to actually install *two* cabinets, with four 10mm threaded rods between them -- they are actually sandwiching the wall. Used 40mm washers and tensile strength steel bolts, and also bolted them down to the concrete slab for good measure. I'm fairly sure that the cabinets now contribute to the stability of the house in high winds :-) Oh, and DOUBLE cabinet space. Hooray! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squinting shot Posted May 9, 2017 Report Share Posted May 9, 2017 I was asked to chop through to a solid wall to fix a gun safe a few years ago when the brocock air pistols got made into firearms certificate holders only. I was in a rental property at the time so the fao came back another day and I handed them all over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.