What’s the best wood stain / preservative?

[Mungler]

So, I’m about to score a largish (2.8m x 5.5m) wooden pod / man cave for my back garden. It’s about 4 years old already and has been outside and is weathered and sun bleached. 

Before it gets transported and erected I would like to get it treated / stained with something that’s going to last - where it’s going to be located is going to be difficult to get to in the future and so the idea is to do whatever needs to be done to it now.

Previously when staining a fence / shed I’ve just gone down to one of the DIY sheds and got a couple of big tubs of whatever they’ve had on offer and is nearest in colour to brown / oak, however, some of those products haven’t faired well and have needed re-doing inside of 2 years.

I know there’s some wisdom on here and a few professionals - so, if I want a brown oak coloured stain / finish / paint that will last for donkeys years, what’s the product to go for? 

Cheers all.

[ph5172]

The old boy next door does all his stuff in decking oil - says you cant get better than that

 

I dont know how true it is but i am about to do mine in it

[Mungler]

I am aware that there are a host of technical UV resistant products out there, but unless you are a boat builder or a pro-decorator, because they are not in the usual sheds they are invisible to the ad hoc DIYer such as myself.

I've just stumbled onto this and will have a sniff round http://www.coating.co.uk/wood-coating/ 

[Penelope]

Mungler,

 

Have a look on here. Screwfix sell their stuff.

https://www.rustins.ltd/rustins/

 

[henry d]

Decking oil is great, I use it on my decking, but for colour I found "Ducksback" really good, better after a second coat though.

[Westward]

Sadolin. Nothing else comes close.

[itchy trigger]

pal swears by ducksback, he's used it since it came out, so done the new kennel with it, it was tanalised but not waterproof,  got a couple of dry days in December so sprayed the first coat on for speed, it repelled the rain, water was beading on the top, just brushed on the second coat, looks well, supposed to last 5 years we will see

[scotslad]

All the best stuff is banned.

I've still got a few tims left of old cuprinol but solvent based, it really was the best. Really thin but soaked in great

I have used ducks back a few times but never really rated it and absolutely useless on any smooth/polished grain ,i had half round rails as a cap on my fence and would never soak into them

I generally think the cresote subsitute is about as good as u get nowadays only get 2 colours thou.

I done my 1st shed with it and t was made out of OSB, so not the best for externak shed building, its still standing now almost 20 yrs later althou looking rough, but it probably hasn't been treated for 14yrs since i moved out

[ditchman]

before you move or stain it....give it a power wash with the conical pulsating lance....its no good putting good stuff on bad stuff.....leave it to dry for a couple of days ...then choose your preservative...

 

i have an old saw horse which i treated with engine oil 8 years ago....still hasnt gone rotten...

Edited May 22, 2018 by ditchman

[figgy]

Ditchman I treated all my new fencing and the carport with used engine oil after leaving it to dry out for months it’s soaked up four coats now and should last a long while. Carport is still to finish along with a bit of fence along one side. Waiting for son and his mates to change the oil on their fast cars. 

[Velocette]

Clearing out the FIL's house recently found a jerrycan full of proper creosote ! I'm eking it out in strategic spots about my place now ,,,just done the hen pen gate and posts to give that unforgettable smell I've associated with wooden hen houses since childhood. Beautiful !!

[scotslad]

As a kid we used to cover all the timber larchlap fences with waste oil, they did last for years, the only draw back might be i know if u lent against my dads fences u often got an oily mark on ur clothes.

Dunno if that was normal or just my dads fences were so satuated with oil couldn't soak any more in (U've also got the carcigenic factor too??)

[ditchman]

1 hour ago, figgy said:

Ditchman I treated all my new fencing and the carport with used engine oil after leaving it to dry out for months it’s soaked up four coats now and should last a long while. Carport is still to finish along with a bit of fence along one side. Waiting for son and his mates to change the oil on their fast cars. 

sound....you know what yer doin'...can be a bit messy for a while....but it works as you know..

[lord_seagrave]

Ducksback is good on rough sawn timber. Doesn’t take so well on anything planed.

When I asked a similar question on here not so long ago, a chap suggested something called Barn Paint, which looked pretty serious.

Good luck

LS

[Scully]

Ensure you’ve given it a thorough clean first and then have a look at what Osmo and Jotun have to offer. Something which will soak in, penetrate and seal without lifting the grain.  

[team tractor]

Can’t beat sovereign products in my eyes. 

 

[Flyboy1950]

If you can find it, good old creosote is the best, I believe there are still a few outlets available, though I haven't put it to the test. Otherwise use used engine oil mixed half and half with paraffin to help it to penetrate the wood. A pal uses it on all his horse paddock fences and sheds, lasts for years. All the old car mechanics used this recipe on the underside of their cars to keep the rust and squeaks at bay and also lubricate all the rubber bushings on the suspension joints, keeping well away from the brake pads though.

I have used Sadolin in the past on my window sills and door surrounds and this works well, but had to keep topping up every few years. 

[Mungler]

The wood in this instance is clean sawn and planed pine - it's gone shiney / waxey looking from being outside already for 3 years. And that leads me into the "I really can't be faffed to sand it down" and so I would be heavily swayed by any solution that is a straight brush on jobby.

I like ditchman's idea of a quick close range jet wash maybe with a bit of washing up liquid.

[Nial]

If there are bits you won't be able to see/ access when it's in position, what about bitumous paint for those bits?

[Westward]

Products like Creosote and old engine oil are not appropriate in the back garden. Apart from being carcinogenic Creosote is toxic to plants - even the fumes - and used engine oil around the garden? This is the 21st century and suitable products are easily available and don't cost life threatening money so why slap such filthy stuff on a decent building. The reason that barely anyone stocks Creosote these days is because there are much safer and more sanitary products available that are at least as good if not better.

Ducksback is for fences and lasts about 5 years. It's similar to decking oil in that it has a tiny amount of wax to aid protection, but such products are little more than watery emulsion paint.

I stand by my earlier post. Sadolin, which originates from Sweden where they have huge numbers of wooden buildings, has always been the No 1 choice because it lasts for years and years and will protect the wood indefinitely if retreated every 10 or so years. We have some 44 year old wooden window frames on the outhouse and the wood is as sound, strong and healthy looking as the day it was bought.

[swan40]

I can recommend bedec barn paint have use loads of it  and it is available in all sorts of colours also it sticks to most things. 

Real creosote is still can be had for farm use and is a lot cheaper but if it was my shed I would use  the barn paint it lasts a long time.

[SpringDon]

Creosote is available for “professional” use.  In this case professional seems to mean the ability to walk into mole valley or a fencing supplier and ask for a barrel of creosote.

Obviously creosote is toxic and a preservative should be because it needs to prevent the growth of moulds and fungi. Most of the creosote alternatives are laughably ineffective. It is the 21st century so we should use products that work, for example telegraph poles are still soaked in creosote.

[loriusgarrulus]

If a wall of the shed is against a fence or wall and will not be accessible it is worth covering that area in a good quality roofing felt after wood treating it.

Cover in horizontal sections starting at the base and overlapping the next layer up over the layer below to stop water ingress.

[wildrover77]

1 hour ago, SpringDon said:

Creosote is available for “professional” use.  In this case professional seems to mean the ability to walk into mole valley or a fencing supplier and ask for a barrel of creosote.

Obviously creosote is toxic and a preservative should be because it needs to prevent the growth of moulds and fungi. Most of the creosote alternatives are laughably ineffective. It is the 21st century so we should use products that work, for example telegraph poles are still soaked in creosote.

+1

[foxshooter69]

Have a look at Solignum